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Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
WeldingRod:
I get good results with an Uno... but I would pick a fancy board if I re-did it ;-)
If your cutting folks have the good hole cutting program, then the holes should work as-is. Otherwise, you can use a step drill or a taper reamer to clean out the burrs.
The funny stepper motor shaft to belt to long shaft widget offers some quality machining time, if you need a distraction!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on October 07, 2018, 08:32:53 AM ---I get good results with an Uno... but I would pick a fancy board if I re-did it ;-)
If your cutting folks have the good hole cutting program, then the holes should work as-is. Otherwise, you can use a step drill or a taper reamer to clean out the burrs.
The funny stepper motor shaft to belt to long shaft widget offers some quality machining time, if you need a distraction!
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
I keep getting disheartened looking at making something like the hotend, and realising that by the time I bought all the heater cartridges and other junk I might as well buy the entire assembly ready made. Delaying thinking about that rod though since i've not got any 5mm or close to 5mm bar long enough on hand. I'm also thinking about doing something with 8mm rod or pipe since i've got alot of 8mm bore pulleys.
Fussing with the build plate right now. I quite like this guy's take. Mains power makes more sense than dealing with big power supplies dumping 12 volts into PCB traces, although those solid state relays make me nervous. Everything i've looked at though has been quite expensive so far though. Wonder if I could get away with a couple old clothes irons bolted to the bottom of an aluminium plate...
S. Heslop:
Had plenty time to think about it while waiting for the car at the garage. The price of doing it like that Werner Berry guy is about the same as just buying a self-adhesive silicone heater. That's really become the theme of this machine.
My last idea for a Cheap Option is to perhaps clip & glue an oven heating element to the underside of the plate with flue silicone. There are thermally conductive silicone adhesives but they're relatively expensive. Something tells me it's a bad idea though...
WeldingRod:
That's an interesting method of making a heater! Mine runs on mains power too (120 VAC). I have a dedicated temperature controller (and sensor) that limits the maximum temperature during heat up. The controller board has its own thermistor screwed into the side of the bed that is able to regulate a bit below the big guy's set point.
My other 3D printer uses nichrome wire taped to the bed with fiberglass and Kapton tape (but running at 12 Volt) (second photo). To make this sort of thing work, you need to keep the Watts per inch of wire down. The challenge is that areas of wire that are in good thermal contact with the bed stay near bed temperature, but ones with poor contact get hot. I had areas that got hot enough to evaporate the Teflon insulation the first time around (first photo)! :zap: Also, terminating Nichrome wire is a PITA. Your best bet is to either use really low Watt density and crimp on high temperature rated ends, or solder on ends. To solder, you must sand the surface of the wire, use acid type plumbing flux and, (ideally) silver bearing solder. Lead free plumbing solder should be ok. The reason for the acid flux is that Nichrome has an adherent oxide layer that solder doesn't normally wet. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:13939
I used a siliconeheater on mine, and had Keenovo make one the right size:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/35x35cm-110V-Silicone-Heater-Cobblebot-3D-Printer-Heatbed-w-Digital-Control-Plug/281704332422?hash=item4196e2fc86:g:HB8AAOSwc1FXZgm4
You really need to get the plate flat, at least if you want the bottoms of your stuff flat. If you use mesh bed levelling you can live with merely flat-ish as long as the shape isn't too complex. The laziest flat surface is glass. You definitely need a bit of thickness; 1/4" or better should work fine.
I LOVE the PEI coated bed I have; zero hassle factor! non-zero $$, though.
WeldingRod:
I can't recommend making nozzles, but heat breaks and heat sinks are definitely do-able and may be worth your fun time, especially if you want something a bit special. I made a special dual-Volcano heat sink to fit my bot.
I should mention that dual nozzle are a PITA on a big printer; the tiny nozzle is always dragging on the big nozzle's work. I have #2 raised way up to get it out of the way. At some point I will switch over to a filament changing nozzle (basically a Y junction in the bowden tube).
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