Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
PekkaNF:
I was affraid that the form tool would dig itself into work, therefore "front relief" was pretty small, you almost need to push it into POM (Think I needed to adjust it just tad "under" centre line) and it does not crab. It is pretty sharp on the front (big "Back rake") to sheave off nice swarf. Thermo plastics are next to dog sh*t compared to tool steels when it comes to cutting forces. This would not work with most of the metals on these dimenssions (metals you get chatter or resort to skiving tool).
S. Heslop:
Nice the extrusions arrived, and all seem to be the right length. I gotta say these corner cubes look terrible though. They threw some sweets in the box too but at over £100 it'd take more than a few refreshers to impress me.
My pledge to the world is that if I ever run a tool related online shop i'll throw in a few pozidriv tips with big orders. You can never have enough of those.
Edit: First things first though, I gotta try clear some space to put it.
WeldingRod:
If you are machining wheels, the consistency of chamfers is critical to the function.
In my design, you can put quite a few un-chamfered wheels to good use too...
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S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on September 25, 2018, 08:49:55 AM ---If you are machining wheels, the consistency of chamfers is critical to the function.
In my design, you can put quite a few un-chamfered wheels to good use too...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
I just realised that earlier today. That i'd only need to chamfer... 16, i think, out of the 20-something wheels. That means I could just buy the 16 ready made wheels. That's still £45 for just the wheels themselves and not the bearings.
I'm thinking the absolutely critical dimensions are the concentricity of the outside chamfer to the inside, the chamfer being perpendicular to at least one of the sides... or the bore (flanged bearings are confusing), and then the chamfers being parallel to each other. The width and depth of the chamfers would be nice to keep accurate but I feel it's something that could maybe be adjusted to compensate for with shims and stuff.
WeldingRod:
Yes, the chamfers need to be concentric, but the thing you really need to control is how far the chamfers fit into the linear rail. Thus, the width and angle of the chamfers is important. You could gauge it by pressing a scrap of rail against the wheel and measuring the wheel OD to the far side of the rail. My model shows 42.09mm for this dimension (probably 42.0 mm in reality). You can live with this being a bit bigger or smaller due to the eccentric adjustment, but you really want them all the same.
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