Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
PK:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on September 14, 2018, 05:52:38 PM ---I highly recommend coupling them with a belt (if posdible),
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Good suggestion. There are other options too.
We recently noticed that our router wasn't cutting squares. It looked like the bed got a bit of a warp in it when it was moved to our new facility.
Part of the fix was to add a second home switch to Y (Y was driven by two steppers, two drives, but one set of step and direction signals) and then drive the two motors independently.
Our machine startup routine then homes both sides of the gantry, initially together, then independently.
Assuming your controller supports this, it's a fairly bulletproof way to make sure everything stays square.
The pic shows one of the homing proxes and the other thing we did which was replace the feet with 25mm all-thread sunk into the slab so we could pull the warp out of the bed..
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on September 15, 2018, 02:22:00 PM ---Sorry for the long blather! Its a topic dear to my heart, and one that I spent a LOT of time on to get my printer working right.
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Don't be daft. I really appreciate the write-up. I'm still a little surprised by how complicated 3d printers are. Or at least how the better ones are.
Been a little busy with some other stuff lately but i'm slowly 'assembling' your machine in CAD (sketchup!) so I can try get a better idea of how it works. And also look at making it a little narrower but a bunch taller. I figure I could replace the verticals, or at least the ones on the Z leadscrew side, with 20x40 extrusions to make them less prone to flexing if they're longer.
In the meantime I keep thinking up loads of stupid project ideas to make use of a 3d printer I don't have. Still want to do that colour mixing stuff but that's getting buried under stuff I think might be easier and more saleable.
WeldingRod:
20x40 will definitely pay off on the main Z verticals and the two y rails. Everywhere else it won't help much, just get in the way. Going to less length on the y rails will help drop too.
I can easily make you dxf files for the plates corrected for those rail dimensions, if you want them.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on September 16, 2018, 09:06:09 PM ---20x40 will definitely pay off on the main Z verticals and the two y rails. Everywhere else it won't help much, just get in the way. Going to less length on the y rails will help drop too.
I can easily make you dxf files for the plates corrected for those rail dimensions, if you want them.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
I've downloaded the dxf files from your thingiverse page and gonna try import them into sketchup at some point. I figure i'll start with the thing as close to yours as possible and then start shifting the dimensions about from there. I also feel other people might make some use from a CAD drawing, even if it's sketchup.
S. Heslop:
This took a while. Sketchup is a pretty awful program and it's dwg impoter likes to add 100 sides to every circle, so I had to go through reducing the count on every arc and hole. Other cad programs actually treat circles as circles and just add more polygons as you zoom in but not sketchup! It annoys me that they're just sitting on a pile of patents for stuff that'd be nice in real cad programs, but sketchup is pretty much unchanged from when google bought it.
There's alot of details to add but for my own purposes I think adding every pulley and screw would be crazy. Gonna take a break then shift it around. Then actually price it out and get a fright. I've already had a look at those V-slot wheels and boy do they charge alot. There's a time i'd have machined them myself to prove a point but i'm starting to find myself short on time now. Still hoping it'll be around £300 at most though but that seems unlikely. It's easy to forget the cost of all the little things like brackets and fasteners.
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