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Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
WeldingRod:
My Simplify3d speed settings for 1.2mm nozzle:
Default printing speed 2500 mm/min
Outline underspeed 50%
Solid infill underspeed 30%
Support structure underspeed 50%
X/y axis movement speed 4800 mm/min
Z axis speed 1000mm/min
For 0.4mm nozzle (which I haven't run in a long time):
Default printing speed 3600 mm/min
Outline underspeed 50%
Solid infill underspeed 80%
Support structure underspeed 80%
X/y axis movement speed 4800 mm/min
Z axis speed 1000mm/min
I will have to get acceleration and jerk off the machine tonight.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
WeldingRod:
Can you try printing a single wall square tube, say 30mm on a side, at least 50mm tall?
You may want to try both vase mode and regular.
This takes out some of the factors like infill...
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
S. Heslop:
Switched the X and Y again to try it once more. And with this taller part it's clearly a problem with the driver since it's now wobbly in the X direction. I guess I should see if they'll exchange the board. And failing that i'll have a look at external driver boards.
Edit: I'm a little peeved but also relieved to know what it is now. I should've caught it earlier but I ruled it out after a test. Because the layers are randomly shifted that one test I did must've had the planets align and most of the layers turn out fairly in-line. This time it's way more blatant.
They accepted the return so i'll send it off tomorrow. But woof what a hassle. Second controller to go bad even if the first one was my fault.
hanermo:
Excellent thread.
Does anyone know of great uses for 3d printed stuff ?
Commercial ?
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: hanermo on November 07, 2018, 04:59:28 PM ---Excellent thread.
Does anyone know of great uses for 3d printed stuff ?
Commercial ?
--- End quote ---
I still think a milling machine will take you further than a 3d printer will for actual engineered parts. Or even with wood you could produce stronger parts quicker. And for artistic stuff the FDM style of 3d printer is kinda ugly and requires alot of finishing, where more traditional sculpting might work better in most cases. But as far as I know though these machines have been around since the 70s for rapid prototyping in commercial use. But I think other methods (SLS?) are more popular for that now.
I might've mentioned it already, but what I want the machine for is making more of those goofy fursuit masks. I've made a few in the more traditional way - sculpting clay/ plasticine and making a silicone mould from that. But storing them takes up alot of space, you're limited to the base shape you started with, and it's hard to really visualise the final look since the fur and other stuff will increase the size. Plus the urethane is hard to adhere to and attaching 'hard points' and features to them requires alot of fettling to make them fit. It feels very bodged and I was hesitant to sell the one I did because of it.
So for this one very specific job I think 3d printers are probably the ideal machine. Without being locked to a mould it'll be easier to iterate the 3d model to fix shortcomings, or to sculpt it to various shapes. Or even scale it to fit different heads. And it should be easier to design more complex and elaborate features.
Er all that said though, i'm sure i'll find other uses for this machine once it's running. But I've gotta be careful to not get carried away with it. Like I was thinking earlier about clips to hold the power supply under the machine, and how I'd best 3d print them. Before realising it'd be a 5 minute plywood job on the bandsaw and drill press. One of the first times I ever saw one of these machines being used for something, in a video, had the guy 3d printing a square stick.
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