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Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
WeldingRod:
You DID do mesh leveling, right?
3x3 is plenty, but its important!
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S. Heslop:
I've been doing it manually! Honestly i'm not sure how levelling works without a probe, but one of them BLtouches are on the list.
Did a big run today to check out how it handles 'real' features. Was having trouble with layers shifting though. The first 2 attempts were aborted since it was real terrible, and this is after unplugging the Y axis home switch once it'd homed at the start.
The right hand side here is supposed to be a ( shape, but the holes are obviously shifted.
This should be straight.
Here it is assembled. I adjusted the steps per MM a bit more after some measurements of the failed runs and it's all pretty damn precise now. More than i'd expected.
And this is what it's supposed to look like. It's more of a mock-up than anything final. It's also nice to do some actual Rapid Prototyping and see the general size of it, as well as what features clearly aren't going to work.
Anyways the layers shifting. I think that could be from interference but I still got some even when it was unplugged. But that again could be from... weird electronics. I'm no expert but I know there's some stuff about pull-up resistors and stuff, which I believe are built into those mech endstops. I should really try ground the cable and see what happens. It's odd though that the X axis has no problems at all despite being a longer and unshielded cable, although I did twist the wires.
Also I believe i'm still under-extruding. I should measure the steps per MM of the extruder as well and calibrate that.
Oh and the progressive infill setting does a great job at making the top layers flat.
WeldingRod:
I screw a small dial indicator on my carriage, with an extension. At each position I go down until the dial stops moving, go up, then down to the last click that moves the dial. What's happening is the nozzle touches down and then the drive system starts to flex. It works really well.
Then, you save those parameters, and you are good for months.
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WeldingRod:
On the steps per mm, put a thermostat on the filament, measure the distance from the stat to the printer, then extrude some distance. Measure, and fix your steps per mm. Recheck afterwards.
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WeldingRod:
Sorry, stupid spell check doesnt speak mad modder!
Hemostat! Super useful workshop tool!
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