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Sheet Metal Brake and 3d Printer.
S. Heslop:
Oops. Probing about trying to adjust the currents on the steppers. Went and Touched the wrong thing and now the display shows all the pixels on, except briefly returning to normal as it's powering off. Seems it's permanently broken but I wonder what part...
Edit: I can just make out the display at an extreme angle and turn the heater on, but none of the steppers move. I heard these things were fragile but yowch. Glad I didn't buy the stupid £160 board!
Edit again: Gonna go with the MKS Sbase 1.3 for about £50. I can feel the sunk cost fallacy starting to sink in! But it's more that setting the currents with a tiny potentiometer and calculating the whatever with the vref isn't so appealing, especially after finding out the Legends are true and those ramps boards are very fragile.
Trouble is the Sbase uses JST connectors instead of the dupont connectors on the ramps board. So I might need to crimp on new connectors or make adapters. But i've been assured by Some Guy that the dupont connectors fit anyways, but i'm not entirely convinced. Seems you wouldn't get full contact.
WeldingRod:
I wired my z steppers in series and was happy with the result! I think that's in the manual....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: WeldingRod on October 22, 2018, 07:36:33 PM ---I wired my z steppers in series and was happy with the result! I think that's in the manual....
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
--- End quote ---
Honestly it's more the cable i'm worried about than the driver.
Alright after alot of stupid crap I finally got it working.
And alot of fiddling with the print settings. Started out with the head deciding to move up about 5mm before starting each print, but changing the initialization G code a bit stopped that. I was then massively over-extruding, then under extruding. And now i'm sort of in the ballpark with it.
This is where i'm at now.
(usual disclaimers. looks alot worse in the photos. still not ideal)
20x20x10mm cube. I've yet to measure it. I'll grab the calipers next time I go downstairs. I think the slight wobbling is from not having a cooling fan, and the fill layers pulling the walls in a bit. Maybe getting the extrusion setting just right would further reduce that too.
I was very fortunate to have just recently met a guy online who's into this stuff. He was able to guide me through alot of the problems I was having, and I wouldn't have figured most of them out on my own. A big one was needing to install the smoothieware drivers and then, through the Windows device manager, install the drivers again (by looking for them on the list of installed drivers) on the MKS SBASE board. So it'd show up as a COM port.
I'm running Marlin 2.0 on the board. It's still in development which made it a real chore to look information up, since fixed problems got broken again, and broken stuff gets fixed on a weekly basis. So most searches show up outdated information and fixes that no longer apply. Required installing a bunch of IDEs and editors to compile the firmware. Open source guys are weird.
Also they weren't kidding about PLA smelling great. It's like golden syrup.
Edit: Dimensions are about 19.9x19.9x10.1. That's better than I expected without any adjustments, but who knows how it holds over a larger piece. I'll do some more tests tomorrow, like the classic retraction pillars and just a big flat square or grid. I also need to measure skew on parts.
WeldingRod:
:nrocks:
Congratulations! I'm totally amazed that you got a good print with that few ugly ones!
chipenter:
I agree about Marlin settings I am running Marlin 16-12 for my mill , and some of the setting don't make sense like turning off the end stops except for homing !
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