Gallery, Projects and General > The Design Shop
Mill/drill stand for Warco Major mill
BillTodd:
Yeah, ejecting a morse taper is a PITA. (even the R8 is annoying). Not doing it up too tight helps.
I had a quick look at an ejector mechanism; the biggest pain is having to thread or otherwise fix the part to the spindle. Only the inside bore is accessible (because its spline drops down into the drive spline at full extension) and there isn't much room between the hole and the draw-bar . Couple that with the need to swap drawbar threads and it makes it a tricky mod.
I've been trying to find the time to reorganise my workshop and I have two better mills, so my drill-mill's days are numbered :-)
PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: BillTodd on August 05, 2018, 08:01:31 AM ---Yeah, ejecting a morse taper is a PITA. (even the R8 is annoying). Not doing it up too tight helps.
I had a quick look at an ejector mechanism; the biggest pain is having to thread or otherwise fix the part to the spindle. Only the inside bore is accessible (because its spline drops down into the drive spline at full extension) and there isn't much room between the hole and the draw-bar . Couple that with the need to swap drawbar threads and it makes it a tricky mod.
--- End quote ---
Something like this:
https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,6371.msg67905.html#msg67905
--- Quote from: BillTodd on August 05, 2018, 08:01:31 AM ---I've been trying to find the time to reorganise my workshop and I have two better mills, so my drill-mill's days are numbered :-)
--- End quote ---
I went the opposite way...
I have been trying to find a small milling machine (relatively high speed spindle, compact size, 600 kg or something) and a small decent (cordinate) drill....could not find, so I gave up and bought that mill/drill that shoul somewhat usefull.
Mill, something like Deckel FP2 / Stanko /east european form factor
Drill, something on the line of old traditional jig borer on laout (don't need the extreme accuracy) but long spindle stoke is nice. Elliot, Linley, et.al.
http://www.lathes.co.uk/elliott%20mini%20jig/index.html
Once I found a pair of deckel FP2 and hauser 2 jig borer/grinder excelent condition and price to match, but not ridiculous, but the seller wanted 3500 euros extra to ship them....felt weird, so I rejected.
Pekka
vtsteam:
--- Quote from: BillTodd on August 05, 2018, 05:19:44 AM ---I the machines are not really rigid enough for accurate milling without a great deal of care.
--- End quote ---
Love those negative generalizations. The used Bridgeport at work is not accurate without a great deal of care. It won't hold tram. My round column mill is quite accurate for milling if the column is in tram, gibs adjusted, the vise square to the bed, and the mill sharp. all of which apply to the Bridgeport as well. A worn or lighter weight machine will require more care to get good work out of it, but that also can be achieved for either. Really, accuracy in work is the quality of a workman, not a machine, and a great deal of care is a relative term. Can we get away from negative generalizations and promote and explain positive ways and means?
BillTodd:
Pekka,
So the extractor is a differential screw , very neat :-)
vts,
I spent a lot of time trying to get my drillmill to work the way i wanted. I have alomost zero backlask roller nuts , vary speed, I've trammed the post and replace all the bearings . I was ready to replace the awful single phase vibrator that mascarades as a motor with a propper 3ph one , until I picked up a low hours xyz (with 2 axis cnc) the difference between the two is chalk and cheese.
The drill mill will do fine work , plenty of guys here do wonderful work on them but when you've played with something better , its failings become obvious and the most glaring of them is rigidity.
BTW if your works BP wont stay trammed , it'll likely be either crap betweem the head mounting faces or damage to same , not difficult to fix but will require the head to be removed .
chipenter:
Mine was bored 7/16" so I taped 1/2" X 32 tpi and made a draw bar 10mm corse , hold the draw bar stationary and screw the toolholder or collet in then tighten the draw bar , tang tooling is removed by the slot in the spindle with a wedge and lifting the spindle if not to tight .
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