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| DIY tablet computer, maybe. |
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| S. Heslop:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on August 04, 2018, 05:23:16 PM ---I do many projects same way. I call first iteration POC (Proof of concept). I think my daugter inherited it from me: For a anime sword, she did first some drafts, then drew it 1:1, then we made very crude model from pine board (just to see if the length is fine, parts look about right size etc.) then she whitled some parts to see how thy would be on 3D, because many stuff is very different on comics pages. AND THEN we started working on plugs to make moulds, to make parts.... I'm very happy to leave details to "next model"....until I am happy with basics. I guess my design process is recursive :scratch: --- End quote --- Yeah thinking about this, I think it's the way to go. Tomorrow i'm just gonna stick that glass on, not bothering trying to blank the borders. My concern with vinyl is just how to get it evenly stuck down. I imagine a rectangle with thin borders would be a bit fiddly to get applied right. I also bought some of that glass paint but it's not very opaque, which I should've expected. A 'real' paint and sandblasting to get a better grip seems like the best way to go in that regard. But then the other problem is how to even line it all up with the active area of the display. I'm probably also going to give the whole motherboard thing a miss since I'm not sure if it even works. And in reality it'd be more useful hooked up to my desktop. I'm just nervous about the thing dying at some point since it's getting pretty damned old at this point. I'd complain more about the lack of real progress in PC hardware over the last few years but really it's a great thing for not having to worry about biannual upgrades to still have a useful PC! |
| S. Heslop:
And I did exactly that. That gap along the top may be because the display isnt sitting fully flat against the glass. I was hesitant to put foam on top of the circuit board since I figure that might be delicate. And I need to fuss a bit with getting the right amount, as well as making sure there's actually room for the display cable. And I need to double check the glass is actually flat before I try forcing the display against it. The handle has a coat of shellac on it. I've heard that shellac when stored dissolved for a while becomes uncurable. But i've yet to have that problem with this bottle I dissolved a couple years back. The keys are from an old electronic calculator - if it ain't obvious! Kinda wish I put them a bit higher up on the upper cluster though. That microcontroller has been through the wars so i'll be surprised if it still functions. |
| S. Heslop:
Got the back plate cut. More of an odeal than I expected. The only thing actually attached is the display controller board in the lower left. I'm going to mount it with studs so I can adjust the height to hopefully clear the connectors over the top of the motherboard. Little concerned about the inverter. I figure that'd be a source of interference if its too close to anything important. I'm also a little concerned about the insulation on that shrink tubing, even though I doubled it up. It'll probably end up sitting on top of the hard drive, maybe with a bit of grounded tin in between. All I've gotta make now is a few bushings to raise the motherboard up a bit... and then the heatsink. I also wish I thought a little further ahead and drilled holes into the case for the exit vent and input/ output sockets, since i'll need to take it all apart again. The heatsink... you can buy heat pipes and I guess solder them. They seem like they might be tricky to solder but i've got a gigantic burner. For the fins i'm considering cutting up a whole bunch of pop cans to make the vanes and just holding them together with a press fit on the heat pipe, since that's how they seem to construct alot of the real ones. Maybe I could make a little swaging die too to punch and stretch the holes. Also gonna look on ebay for a 12 volt adapter. I was hoping i'd find one at the boot sales. Then I can actually test to see if the display works before really worrying about going further on the computer side. |
| nrml:
Nice work. This is certainly a very unique project. I've never seen anything quite like this and I mean that in a good way. Judicious use of guitar shielding foil should sort out interference problems. How about arctic silver thermal epoxy for building the heat sink. It wont be as efficient as a soldered joint but is likely to be far less of a hassle to put together. |
| krv3000:
in a word brill |
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