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The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)

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awemawson:
O ring ordered  :thumbup:

I made up a dinky little M4 slide hammer to try and get those two threaded dowels out. Only partially successful so far.

The first one shattered so must be very hard, but there was enough internal thread left to get the butt out. The second one is resisting removal so will have to wait until the morning.

(They are 6 mm x  30 mm tapped M4)

Pete.:
What's next? Turn a pinch collar to grip the OD with a m4 thread in the end for pulling on?

awemawson:
A good idea Pete but not necessary as THE DOWEL IS OUT  :ddb:

Usually you can heat things up to get a bit of differential expansion, but I didn't want to heat the casing up or it might distort, but then I remembered my Freezer Spray - used to identify intermittent heat problems with electronic components it allows me to dibble just a bit of the liquid onto specific places. Well the dowel has an M4 female thread, ideal for the straw  :thumbup:

It took a couple of freezing sessions, but then very slight movement (Sharpie mark on dowel as indicator) and I knew it was mine.

(The frozen photo is posed - obviously by the time it came out it was nearly the same temperature as the casing block)

So now the next decision - oil or grease lubrication? Suggestions please.

awemawson:
The next job was to make some replacement dowels - simple enough as I happened to have some 6 mm precision shafting. From a dismembered printer I suspect.

I decided to make them shorter at 20 mm (originally 30 mm). With the section that I milled off to accommodate the Turret swarf guard one had to be shorter anyway, and frankly the length doesn't add to their ability to locate the two half of the gear box as they are in shear in use.

The shafting must have been surface hardened, as although it's core is still pretty tough, starting the parting off, even with an inserted indexable parting tool was 'interesting'.

They are a nice pneumatic 'pop' fit  :thumbup:

awemawson:
The bearing and seals arrived in today's post so I could get on re-assembling it while the pottery kiln cooks a bit and dries out (hopefully).

Just reversing the sequence of pulling apart so not frightfully interesting. I packed the bearings with high temperature lithium grease in the end as that's what I used on the straight ones.

Still missing the large O ring that seals the cover for the taper roller bearing end float adjustment, but I mounted it up anyway and ran it a bit to 'run in' the bearings before final adjustment.



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