The Craftmans Shop > New from Old
The Sequel - Oh Blimey I bought a CNC Lathe (Beaver TC 20)
seadog:
I used to do the same with DEC VT220 keyboards. That, and repairing the silver track on mylar which, due to a design 'fault' used to rub through. RS silver loaded paint was an excellent product.
PK:
--- Quote from: awemawson on June 13, 2018, 03:38:22 PM ---I suspect if I were brave, a good wash in hot water might dissolve a lot of it, and where rust has been washed down a card, a light brushing of citric acid to remove the Fe2O3, but I'm not sure what effect it would have on the tinning on the ic's legs. It also rather depends what's been washed under a chip. Some of the devices are surface mount so no gap but stuff will have crept into the tiny space that must be there.
--- End quote ---
Isopropyl alcohol is the go to solvent for 'first go' cleaning of things in the electronics business. Toothbrushes and ultrasonic cleaners work about as well as each other. Anything that's going to chemically react with corroded metal is going to react with the tinned leads.
Glad to hear you found a replacement board. If you get REALLY stuck, it is possible to re manufacture a board, we've done it before for a customer who just couldn't sort the problem out any other way. If it's only a two layer board then that's a bit easier as you can trace the layout with a scanner after floating the parts off in a solder bath. Anyhow, hopefully you won't need to go that far.
PK
awemawson:
We have company for lunch today so no real play time having done the animals, but I did manage to draw up a sheet metal 'Shelf' in Autocad to replace that bit of aluminium that I'd previously balanced on the bars.
Drawn in Autocad, saved as a .DXF, imported to SheetCAM, ported to MACH3 and cut out of 2 mm Zintec steel on the CNC Plasma Table then bent on the Edwards Box & Pan folder- the Plasma table certainly makes this sort of thing so much easier.
It sits nicely but some how I want to bolt it to the bars, so when they are withdrawn it stays as a single unit, but I want to preserve the undrilled top surface - might need to break out my stud welder and see how accurately I can place studs - I can see it will be useful for paper work at the monitor when it's original purpose of removing and replacing the controller is done with :thumbup:
awemawson:
Glad to say after a bit of negotiating I've come to a settlement with the German Siemens Sinumerik Card Flogger, and Card-B (my name) and it's daughter memory card are on the way to me - cheeky chappie is charging two set of (expensive) carriage but I bet they arrive in the same box !
It wasn't cheap, but I reckon a better solution than trying to clean up the originals - however I will keep them and perhaps have a go in the future.
Still need to clean up the I/O crate (not got it out yet!) and also try and get the rust off the main controller crate. I may try masking it and using my 'spot sand blaster'
awemawson:
So I got a little time this evening when guests had departed to fix the shelf and bars together. I drilled the bars 6 mm and counter-bored them 1/2" so that nothing sticks downwards under the bar to catch you out, and a hex socket will fit in the recess.
Then mounting the shelf and wiggling it into the centre of its movement latitude I marked though the holes with a Sharpie, and then gave the marks a decent sized centre pop.
Digging out my Stud Welder (*) I did a few test firings to prove my settings then I located the pip in the M5 x 18 mm studs I was using in the centre pops and fixed four studs. Amazingly they fitted the bars, and being 18 mm they don't protrude below the 3/4" bars.
. . . so objective achieved - an unblemished upper surface and the bars and shelf now together as a unit :thumbup:
The Stud Welder can go back to bed for another long sleep :ddb:
* https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,10287.0.html
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version