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Sharpening Drill Bits

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Darren:
I knew you would say that John..... :ddb:

bogstandard:
That is why I let everyone else get their say in first. :lol:

But I do have a Martek drill sharpener that does an almost acceptable job.


John

Darren:

--- Quote from: Bernd on May 26, 2009, 09:31:32 PM ---Darren,

I have one of those and have to agree with you. I bought myself the "Drill Doctor" model 750. It will do drills up to .750". Great tool, easy to use and very accurate.

You can check it out at www.DrillDoctor.com

Wouldn't be without one now.

Bernd

--- End quote ---

Thanks Bernd, and others that suggested this unit....

I bought one and although I can and have been grinding drill bits freehand for years with quite acceptable results this does it quicker and better than I can.

I got the 750 model and although not cheap, in one afternoon it has easily paid for itself (I have a lot of drills bits  :lol:, never thrown any way over the years, unless I bent one, so the box was quite full.....)

I've had cheap powered drill grinders before, with a stone wheel, but the wheel gets out of shape rather quickly from what I've found.
The diamond wheel in the DD should last a long time..... :dremel:

John Stevenson:

--- Quote from: bogstandard on May 28, 2009, 09:19:59 AM ---
It is for that very reason that I discard all my old drills.

John

--- End quote ---

Philistine......... :wave:

I know I'm going to get flack over this but I grind brand new drills.

People say buy good and throw them away but I have quite a unique experience in small drills, last place I was employed at, current job don't count as Gert reckons I'm playing, we used to drill precision holes in wood, by precision I mean 50 thou to a 1/2 thou tolerance and before you skoff, yes it can be done and has been for a 100 years.
But there are no 50 thou drills so we used to have to make them. The result was you learned a lot about what cut best and how to hold tolerances.

Fast forward to today and one of my jobs is making dividing plates, all specials and some have 3,300 holes in them, a normal run will be just less than 2,000 holes 2.5mm, 3 mm and 1/8" are popular sizes.

If I buy good quality Guhring drills I can get 4 plates, about 2,000 to 3,000 holes before the web deteriorates and I get run off or worst a  broken drill which is unacceptable, one for quality and two for lost time.

Now if I take a that same drill after one use and grind it 4 facet on a small German Meteor drill grinder I can get 8,000 holes before changing.
This might sound like bullshit but the Meteor and Christian drill grinders are still made today, small enough to fit in a shoe box but a new Christian will set you back 14 grand, yup 14 grand, no misprint. So there has to be a use and demand for them.

Because of lost time, the drill is £1.50, the plate is about the same but some of these plates are on the machine for close to 2 hours, that's 2 hours at commercial rates lost when a drill breaks I now grind every drill straight out of the packet and change them every 4 sets regardless.

.

Darren:
Interesting John,

In my last lot of free gifts I was given some drill bits, all good makes, Presto, Dorma, Guhring and some Italian ones I can't remember the name of right now.

Most were new and if you look very carefully one or two were not ground equally on both sides. With cheap drills I find this is quite common, but don't expect it with the more expensive types.

So I popped a couple in the Derex and sure enough one side ground before the other. On the ones that looked good both sides started grinding equally as far as I could tell.

Apart from that they are deff sharper than new. I will have to see how I get on with them.

I suppose when drill bits are made they are ground by the 1,000's or even 10.000's at a time before the machine is re-calibrated thus a chance for tolerances to drift.

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