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Sprayable Wax - does it exist?

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awemawson:
Don, I only went as far a 25 grams in 500 millilitres

I'm quite sure I could have dissolved more given time and more warming, but I only wanted to lay a very  thin layer on the machines.

Beeswax, boiled linseed oil and Turpentine mixed 1:1:1 are the components of traditional furniture cream which in that ratio forms a paste.

PekkaNF:
Pure beeswax looks pretty on fourniture and can be buffed to luster repeatedly, the turpentine (or other solvent) is there to help spreading, but it spread without it on just a slightly warmer than room temperature. Pure beeswax softens at body temperature and if it used to finish chairs, your pants will absorbe wax while you widget in family function. Linseed oil (especially boiled linseed oil) will oxidize, harden and stabilize. Good news on fourniture finish, bad thing on metal objects if you ever need to move anything appart. It makes pretty good glue most of the times if it seeps in close fitting surfaces.

Pretty much all vegetable oils will "harden" given enough time. Been reading of Camelia oil being used traditonally for japanese hand tools to prevent rusting....
https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Camellia-Oil-Spray-Rust-Protection-P407.aspx
Bought a little bottle of different brand. Really can't tell if it any better or worse of any other vegetable oil or wax. Scent is milder and it hardens slower than most oils, including raw linseed oil IMHO.

Main thing is to buy "raw" not cooked linseed oil, if you dont't want it to set. Cooked linseed oil is basically a warnishs. How I did found out? Long time ago I read how great linseed oil is, renovated bedroom, put very nice wall papers and made all mouldings from plank up. They looked very nice, "painted" them with raw linseed oil and dried them with a rag. Really nice, smooth lustre. Few days later I fitted them in place and admired my handiwork. Few months later I noticed that on many places the linseed oil started to seep into light blue wall paper. Yellowish blobs don't go well with light ble floral patterns. That prompted me to study a little deeper.

Pekka

Will_D:
When I was shearing sheep on a Welsh hill farm in the late 60s after a week your Levis were totally waterproofed!

Has no-one mentioned Waxoil? Car I built in the 80s was full of it! Chasis rails were 4 x 2 by 3 mm steel box.
It was a Burlington Arrow built on a Triumph Vitesse donor. Straight 6, triple Webber 40s!!

nrml:
It's a bit of a late suggestion, but I'll add it anyway in case someone else comes searching someday. I use this https://www.bilthamber.com/dynax-uc for corrosion protection. It takes a few weeks to lose the tackiness but the performance cant be faulted. I have never had to re-spray it on a machine yet. The price isn't too bad either as a little goes a long way.

Biggles:

T9 Boeshield, Developed by Boeing to protect aircraft parts.
https://www.rutlands.co.uk/sp+power-tool-accessories-tool-maintenance-cleaning-lubricants-t9-boeshield-xtra-large-12oz-boeshield+dk7130?utm_campaign=Googlebase&utm_medium=organic&utm_source=Googlebase&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4rn6ptyj2wIVYb7tCh04TgivEAQYASABEgLPJvD_BwE

or you could go down the homebru road.

George  :coffee:

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