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| Soldering iron for wires/connectors and soldering pot - worth of it? |
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| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: Noitoen on April 02, 2018, 03:58:59 PM ---Weller used to have this. https://goo.gl/images/VaYNNJ --- End quote --- That would have been fine to me...but not that common. |
| PekkaNF:
--- Quote from: PekkaNF on April 02, 2018, 12:05:37 PM ---... Anyways, I order one cheap 38 mm dia model. .... --- End quote --- Solder pot appeared today. Crusty chinesesium, but price was righ. Came with an australian? three prong cable and two prong adapter that does not fit into socket, neither to cable :lol: Some adpter. Anyways, it feels like need to check inside before powering up, change the cable and check grounding/insulation resistance. Second thing: Which solder for pot? No rosin for sure, but would auto body 30% Tin, 70% Lead bar stuff work? |
| awemawson:
Electronics solder was always 60/40 - not sure if 70/30 would be that much different :scratch: |
| PekkaNF:
Least a little different melting temperature? https://www.microsoldering.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Screen-Shot-2016-01-06-at-11.22.49-PM-1024x875.png Pekka |
| awemawson:
Your 30/70 was presumably intended for 'lead loading' ie repairing and fairing body panels. The lead loading 'solder' I've used (*)exhibited a far longer pasty state - ie not liquid and yet not solid. 60/40 has a resonable pasty state whereas the 'lead free' solders seem to go straight from liquid to solid with very little time in the pasty state. (* back in the early 1970's fairing panels on my brothers 1947 MG TC ) |
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