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Damp proofing

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John Rudd:
No corners have been cut.....the house is made from the same brick....

Cant do a car port, both sides are bounded by gardens, mine and next doors....the back end, well I'm erecting a shed, 3 x3 metres...should keep the rain off there... :coffee:

hermetic:
NHBC (LOL) or no, a brick which allows moisture through a wall is not fit for purpose, and I would go the warranty route immediately. As for a cure, you could put laths and a tyvec type breathable membrane on the outside, and hang rosemary or larger type tiles on it, to stop the weather getting to the bricks, you could also lath the inside with25 x50 @600 centres, then put 50mm jablite between then visqueen and finish with ply or stirling board. A single brick garage will be freezing cold in winter! I have just finished doing my workshop like this. The only problem with doing this inside, is that the visqueen need to be continuous with the visqueen under the floor slab, or at least drain into the underfloor beneath the slab in order that the damp be sealed out completely. Use tanalised lath.By far the best cure is to seal from the outside. Cheapest immediate solution is some brick waterproofing silicon spray from screwfix, done when the bricks are bone dry, and see if that works. I would be down the solicitors by now!There are basic building regulations concerning the suitability of materials, and one of those is that the outer layer of bricks must be impervious to moisture, and the building regulations are statute law after all!

RussellT:

--- Quote from: hermetic on March 31, 2018, 03:53:05 PM ---one of those is that the outer layer of bricks must be impervious to moisture

--- End quote ---

That doesn't stop the wall letting water through.  In practice the vertical joints are seldom tight and in some walls you can see daylight.  It is worth remembering that cavity walls were introduced to stop rain penetration rather than for insulation.

Russell

howsitwork?:
Having a cavity built workshop I too can vouch that it needs time after construction to dry out. A dehumidifier running inside helps greatly. Once it’s drier outside waterproof by all means but as others have said get the machinery above ambient to stop rust!
I put a 6ft oil filled radiator on a thermostat in mine set to 12c just keeps everything ok. But this was after the dehumidifier had pulled a few gallons out. Kept the distilled water produced for other things, quite useful all round.

Before doing all the insulating get the electrician to instal a suitable sized distribution board in it. Then the sockets can go where needed with no hassle to SWMBO. I learned that at the last house we had built.

Have fun

Ian

hermetic:
If you can see daylight through a newly built wall, then the brickie needs sacking. Yes, the idea of cavity walls was to stop damp penetration, but my brothers factory, an old chapel, was built around 1878, has cavity walls, and impervious bricks. a new build wall that lets water through to this extent is not fit for purpose, no two ways about it! NHBC, on certain sites (not all by any means), have set new standards in piss-poor building. I was at one recently where we had to chop in plaster depth boxes, because a wall built across to divide two rooms had been started from either end, without a line, and the plasterers were putting 50mm on one side of a doorway, and a skim  on the other to try to create a flat wall, another occasion, on the same site, the NHBC inspector had pointed out to the builder that the hip board on a newly tiled garage roof, finished in mid air, and the roof was already sagging! As an electrical engineer, I have worked in alliance with the building trade for much of my working life, and also done a huge amount of brickwork myself, and also built a five bed house, from footings (put down on the hottest day of the last century!) to ridge tiles. walls may get damp over time, but walls that let water through, or bricks that absorb water to that extent are not fit for purpose, but probably very cheap!! I have explained how to cure the problem in my earlier post, but generally we have to stop accepting poor quality work and poor materials as being acceptable, they are not, and we should shout it from the rooftops!

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