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Rebirth of a Denford MIRAC CNC Lathe

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awemawson:
Today I attempted glazing the door and was defeated, deflated and a bit hacked off  :bang:

It was going quite well, I cut short samples from the length of window rubber and checked that my superglue satisfactorily bonded it back together - it did and had good tensile strength. (Incidentally the only way I could get a decent straight cut was with a micro-serrated knife stolen from the kitchen - a normal Stanley knife blade was too short to do it in one swipe)

I then tightly stretched the rubber around the glass, marked for cutting off, and deliberately cut it 15 mm too short so it had to be stretched on. Then I glued it using an off-cut of the polycarbonate sheet for alignment.

Then the fun started - now the rubber was glued into a continuous loop it had no desire whatsoever to stay around the window pane, get a bit on and another bit would run for freedom. Multiple hands needed - in fact the wife was called to contribute another pair and even then it was winning all the time. In the interests of marital harmony I resumed on my own and eventually got the rubber on by the expedient of putting clamps on holding the rubber against the window as I worked round the pane (that should really be PAIN !)

Now remember I stretched this rubber tight then deliberately cut it short before gluing and yet it obviously is now too long  :bang:

So admitting defeat I've called on the services of Shaun who works for Autoglass and is a friend of a friend - hopefully he'll be round in a few days.

awemawson:
So to cheer myself up I tackled a dent in the machines plinth. This machine has been roughly handled at some time - the lower edge of the plinth at the headstock end has thumped something and been badly dented. It has a flange bent under it and unfortunately the dent extended across the bend for this flange. Given decent access and an oxy-acetylene torch knocking the flange bend back square would be quite simple, but there is very limited access to the rear of this panel - no room to swing a hammer for instance. And the torch is ruled out as there is wiring and an oil reservoir in the vicinity.


So ingenuity, carver clamps and a bit of brute force were applied to restore some semblance of order. Not perfect but better than it was  :thumbup:

Pete.:
That's where you need one of those spot-welder studs that screw into a slide hammer.

awemawson:
Well Pete I do have a proper stud welder:

https://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,10287.msg116100.html#msg116100

I was considering rolling it out for this job, but huge current spikes near electronics that you can't replace took the shine off the idea.

The plate it's bent from is about 3 mm so fairly substantial - I suspect even M8 studs would struggle (that's the biggest it fixes) and the kink in the corner of the flange couldn't be pulled out anyway  :scratch:

I suspect it'll be filled and rubbed down before painting  :palm:

melgump:
 Hi Awemawson.
I think you are tackling the glazing procedure backwards. You should fit the rubber seal to the hole in the door ( or bodywork if auto) and if necessary hold in place with masking tape. Put the joint at the bottom. It is preferable that the rubber is slightly too long than too short. You then fit the glass from the outside and finally the locking strip. Always works for me.

Cheers,
Melgump.

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