X2 belt drive conversion

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raynerd:
Excellent job Tim. I like the "ear" idea, I don`t have any ally in stock large enough to include the sides all in one, so I may well use this idea. Thanks for the update. Keep us posted.

Chris

sbwhart:
Coming along nicely Tim :clap:

Stew

spuddevans:
Thanks guys :thumbup:

I got some time in the workshop today and got started on the motor mount. I hacked off some more of the 4" x 1/2" ali flat plate and then milled both cut ends smooth. Then on went some marking out dye (big black marker :lol: ) and then I marked it out.

Then I mounted it onto the mill with a sacrificial plate underneath and center drilled and then drilled through the 4 motor mounting holes, a pivot hole (drilled larger to accept a brass bush) and then a hole for enlarging for the motor pulley.

Then I dug out the faceplate, stuck it on the lathe and set about centering the motor mount. Then I removed the motor-mount and hacked off 2 corners to enable the motor-mount to turn without hitting the ways. :doh: (the curse of the small lathe). I got the motor-mount roughly centered by mounting a drill the same size as the hole, into the tailstock, and using that to center it. After roughly centering and hand tightening the hold-downs, I removed the drill and mounted a Dti to get it accurately centered, then I tightened the bolts up fully and started to make the cut.

The boring completed.

Next step will be to mill out the curved slot on the motor mount, then make a brass bush, and then drill and tap the "ears".

That's it for today,

Tim

SPiN Racing:
Coming along Nice Tim!

spuddevans:
Ok, I got a little more done today. I started out by making a brass bush for the pivot pin on the lathe and boring the centre 6mm

And then pressed the bush into the motor-mount plate

I then drilled and tapped the 2 "ears" M6 and turned my attention to the curved slot. I knew that my tapped holes in the "ears" were not the same distance apart as the plans called for ( about 2.5mm narrower ) and wanting to make sure the slot was the right curvature and the right distance from the pivot I came up with a solution. Just mark out the underneath of the motor-mount with a black marker, then screw a M6 grub screw in the hole with the pointy end up, attach the motor-mount with a long M6 screw through the brass pivot pin and scrape a curved line.

I then clamped the belt-drive base to the mill, mounted the motor-mount onto the base (upside down so I could see the newly scribed line) and chain drilled the bulk of the slot out.

To clean up the slot I used a 6mm slotting mill in the same setup, but for this operation I removed my hands from anywhere near the cutter. I used a long F-wrench clamped onto the motor-mount to rotate the workpiece, taking very shallow cuts until the slot was made smooth. I also kept the pivot screw fairly tight but there was still a bit of vibration, esp' if I tried to take off too deep a cut. It may take longer, but many many shallow cuts felt safer than trying to do it in 2-3 passes.

Next I have to mill away some of the underneath of the motor-mount to reduce part of it from 1/2" to the 3/8" thickness called for in the plans, then I have to drill and tap the 2 pulleys for set-screws, check if the key-ways are deep/wide enough, make a spring loaded spindle locking pin, and then just try it all out when the belt arrives.

Tim

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