Gallery, Projects and General > How to's

Grinding the jaws on my three jaw chuck

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mattinker:
My take on regrinding the jaws on my very old (probably 75 year old!) three jaw chuck. The end is a bit strange, I've cut it short to end better it's not perfect but, better!

Cheers, Matthew

awemawson:
Nicely illustrated Matthew  :thumbup:

My only addition to your process would be to have used a stone whose entire length can traverse the whole working face of the chuck jaw. This ensures that wear on the stone during the operation has no effect on the diameter being ground as the 'fattest' bit of the stone touches all parts.

Inevitably the stone will wear a bit,  mainly on the leading edge, and even if you dress the stone frequently the inner bits of the jaws will be ground less than the outer bits if you see what I mean  :scratch:

mattinker:
Andrew,

point taken, though, these jaws are 75mm long finding a suitable stone would be a bit tough!

Matthew

awemawson:
Matthew,

The small internal stones I use in my J&S 1300 EUIR cylindrical grinder are supplied as cylinders with a central hole, and can be mounted on an arbor as long or short as you wish.

For a 3" long chuck jaw you need a stone that is relatively short  say 1/2" or so so to meet my criteria would be mounted on an arbor with marginally more than 3 1/2" protrusion from the collet.

White aloxite 46 grade probably be my first choice

hermetic:
Hi Matt, on the flange where the chuck fits, is there any indexing marks, or odd bolt spacing or alignment pins,  in order to get the chuck on to the flange in the same orientation every time?

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