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picclock:
Just my two penneth. The cable diameter to the pump does not look that large. When pumps start they need a large surge current. I suspect thicker cable or run another cable in parallel to increase the start current capability.

A quick trick to prove it, if your feeling brave, is to connect the live from the pump to a changeover switch, and once its running from the generator switch it over to regular mains. Not for the fainthearted as there will be no phase correction.

Alternately just get some cable or an extension lead and double up the connection.

I had a similar problem with a 13A compressor which refused to start even though wired with 35Amp cable a couple of hundred feet away. Doubling the cable sorted it, though it was a puzzle at the time.

Best regards (and good luck)

picclock

eskoilola:
Is the house equipped with a 3-phase power ?
If this is the case then this might be a broken zero line as well. If this is the case You should fix it a.s.a.p. as this failure has a tendency to fry "unrelated" devices like laptop charger etc.
To test for this failure just switch on some light and if it turns BRIGHTER when the pump is "humming" then it might be the zero wire.

Edit: Actually not a 3-phase setup. Nevertheless the neutral wire could still be the culprit. It may well be that the neutral is broke and You get the "neutral" using the shield ground. I can see that these two are connected in the pump box.

Is the electricity in the house all OK when the pump is "humming" ?

naffsharpe (Nathan):
Sounds like a neutral (uk) /0 volts (elsewhere) to me. Probably a corroded terminal or cable end causing high resistance. If it's a capacitor start/run pump check/replace the capacitor. Check the motor windings if cap start or run. As you do not show the pump having 4 leads from the breaker (ground/main/aux/cap) you may have a capacitor IN the pump. Check manufacturers specs or give the pump details and I'll check it out, it's what I do for a living. Nathan.

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