Author Topic: It pays to talk - proud owner of a Box-ford Model "A" Lathe (Read 73751 times)

John Hill · « **Reply #25 on:** May 23, 2009, 12:17:11 AM »

No one like that X,Y slide do they!

I have seen worse and I think I would gladly swap that one for mine which cruddy though it is its not too bad for its intended purpose on the table of the drill press. It is a pity they made the gibs from lids of sardine cans as I think some attention there would make it a much better device.

raynerd · « **Reply #26 on:** May 23, 2009, 03:19:13 AM »

Hi Guys

Thanks for the info - I totally agree that this should be done properly to avoid

A lot of you talked about two switched and if you look in the poto there are two switches - a big silver switch and then a switch at the side labeled forward - reverse.

Unfortunately like I said earlier, I have friends in many professions but not in electrics

I really don`t think I can expect an electrician to squeeze under and work in the lathes current position - I`m going to have to try and detach the motor and remove the wiring and switch. Do you think this would be a sensible move - detaching the motor and switches and then I can take it to someone for a look rather than asking them to try and mess around in the current position.

Regarding the home made carriage stop - it does thread behind the switch but doesn`t intefer with it at all - it is just a small di. iron bar that can be clamped up at various positions to stop the carriage - it doesn`t effect the electronics.

Chris

John Hill · « **Reply #27 on:** May 23, 2009, 05:41:01 AM »

I think that is a good idea Chris, detach the motor, give it a clean if necessary and take it to someone, explain what it is for and maybe take a few pictures. He will know how to wire it to some sort of box which you can attach to the machine.

There will be switches that combine both the off/on and the reverse/forward but there is no technical reason I know of that would stop you/him (the electrician) using two switches of quite common types.

John
The Artful Bodger.

Darren · « **Reply #28 on:** May 23, 2009, 05:54:12 AM »

An electrician might not want to know if you remove parts and take it to him...

It's all down to earth bonding and rcd/mcb regs, no electrician worth his salt would do half a job...

Sorry Chris but you may have to bite the bullet on this one.

When you think what you have had for free you can't really complain.....

raynerd · « **Reply #29 on:** May 23, 2009, 06:20:23 AM »

Darren, what do you mean by "Sorry Chris but you may have to bite the bullet on this one." ? Sorry, just not with you, do you mean get an electrician in or have to sort it out myself?

Chris

Pelallito · « **Reply #30 on:** May 23, 2009, 05:06:20 PM »

Craynerd,
Darren probably meant that you need to have the electrician go to the machine and look it over. Then he can decide what needs to be done safely and correctly to rewire your machine. If it is not grounded correctly, you or whoever touches it will be the ground. That is not a pleasant experience, and one that you don't always survive. More people get killed in home electrical accidents every year than you would think.

I work closely with electricians all of the time in an industrial setting. Whenever I try to explain what I want to do at home, they get a glazed look in their eyes. Then they start giving an explanation after about 100 questions.
Be careful and enjoy that great find.
Regards,
Fred

John Hill · « **Reply #31 on:** May 23, 2009, 05:39:23 PM »

Ummmmmm, it is not the lathe that has to be grounded, it is the motor that has to be grounded and also the control box if it is of conductive material.

Show this diagram to an electrician and see what he says.

Darren · « **Reply #32 on:** May 23, 2009, 08:58:31 PM »

And the Lathe is you want to do it by the regs John.

It's called earth bonding, been a requirement for decades

Darren · « **Reply #33 on:** May 23, 2009, 09:06:09 PM »

Chris, I meant that you should find someone qualified. Electricity is not something to play with unless you have a good understanding of what is required to keep others around you safe.

You can kill yourself, but killing someone else will give you far more grief...

Electricians are easy to find, just pick up the book, ring one and get him round for a quote. Chances are he'll find it a little different to his normal work resulting in a bit of interest.

As they say, a change is as good as a rest...

websterz · « **Reply #34 on:** May 24, 2009, 12:35:33 PM »

Quote from: Darren on May 23, 2009, 08:58:31 PM

And the Lathe is you want to do it by the regs John.

It's called earth bonding, been a requirement for decades

Same as an earth ground?

Darren · « **Reply #35 on:** May 24, 2009, 02:00:38 PM »

I'm not familiar with the terminology or requirements in the US so it's difficult to comment.

In the UK, earth, ground and neutral are all the same thing, though used differently. That is don't go connecting them to the same point locally.

The reason you need to earth the lathe itself, and indeed the cabinet it sits on, is in case a live wire for the motor or switches breaks through its insulation and touches the lathe itself. Without an earth of some description you would provide a nice path when you next touched the machine.

Not nice

With the machine properly earthed the fuse would blow instantly.

So it it important to earth any equipment including any steel benches etc in you workshop.

It may just prevent you or somebody else from dying

Darren · « **Reply #36 on:** May 24, 2009, 03:13:18 PM »

I would like to point out that in the UK many areas of altering electrics in the home is now illegal by unqualified persons.

Some things you can do for yourself, but some you most certainly can't.

Be warned, get it wrong and the consequences can be quite frightening, even prison in some cases.

I don't really know where something such as a lathe fits in here, but you can bet your life if something should happen you'll have broken the law.

Just get someone qualified in, you'll also then get a cert of compliance to cover you and your house insurance.

But please, do not find a "mate" and twist his arm. The risk is just too great these days.

Bluechip · « **Reply #37 on:** May 24, 2009, 03:53:47 PM »

Chris

If you want to de-rust your taps dies etc. try this ..

http://www3.telus.net/public/aschoepp/electrolyticrust.html

I have used the same process in the past, if you want to reduce the current, put a 12V/21W car indicator lamp in series with the electrodes.

Works the same, just takes longer .. if it's fizzin' it's workin' ..

Leave as long as you like, it won't remove metal, unless you have it the wrong way round.

But it don't put metal back unfortunately

Dave

raynerd · « **Reply #38 on:** May 24, 2009, 03:56:50 PM »

Well I was speaking to the guy who I bought it off this morning because I need to go collect the cabinet and he asked how I was finding it. I told him I hadn`t had it running because of the wiring - when I collected the cabinet he came back with me to help me unload and then hooked it up. He connected the two wires up and then earthed to the motor with a wire I hadn`t noticed - he did all this through a shut off "stop" switch that he also failed to give me in the first instance. It runs very nice - you can`t compare it to my little 7x12!

I would have been happy with this but with everything that has been said in this post - I have unplugged it and promised my wife (who has already ready this thread) that I won`t use it until I get an electrician around this week. Can`t wait to get using it.

Chris

raynerd · « **Reply #39 on:** May 24, 2009, 03:59:15 PM »

Hey Bluechip - you posted at the same time as I was.

I`ll be certain to give that go - working in a lab, setting up an electrolysis cell will be no problem! I`ll post my results.

Chris

Bluechip · « **Reply #40 on:** May 24, 2009, 05:16:36 PM »

Chris

Forgot to mention .. a cute way of attaching bits to the bus bars is to use these wotsits. Put a screw/washer thro' one handle loop to connect to bar , then clip the part in .. took ages to find out what they were called. NOT Bulldog clips apparently. Only pic I could find, but obtainable from Staples or similar I suppose.

I seem to remember one source of this set up has a 'woe betide' bit about dangling copper wire in the soln. Don't remember why !! If I ever knew

http://www.rapidonline.com/Office-IT/Stationery/Stationery/Foldback-clips/80013

Dave

raynerd · « **Reply #41 on:** May 28, 2009, 03:28:25 AM »

Could anyone advise how I should lubricate this lathe?
There looks to be two grease nipples next to the Boxford badge as shown in this picture

Are these grease nipples? Also what should I use to lube the gearing and finally the bed?

Any help appreciated.
Chris

kvom · « **Reply #42 on:** May 28, 2009, 08:34:23 AM »

For the ways I use way oil (Mobil Vactra).

On my lathe I use Mobil Heavy Medium for the headstock and gearbox, and Mobil Medium Light for the spindles. I seriously doubt you want grease anywhere other than the motor.

raynerd · « **Reply #43 on:** August 08, 2009, 05:16:46 PM »

I`m slowly working my way through the collection of tooling that came with the lathe and for the last few weeks I`ve been playing with the small collection of collets that came with it. I would like to keep my eye out on ebay for a larger collection of collets for this machine but I am unsure what collet type it is.

I have been doing some research and I believe the collets associated with boxford are 3C due to the 3MT. Can anyone confirm that any 3C collets I can purchase will fit my Boxford.

Chris

CrewCab · « **Reply #44 on:** August 08, 2009, 05:37:54 PM »

Chris,

3C Collet's fit a 3C chuck ..................... Like This, OK that's a 5C but the principle is the same .............

for a 3MT spindle, 3MT Collet's would be the best bet Click Here plus you will need a Drawbar.

CC

raynerd · « **Reply #45 on:** August 08, 2009, 05:52:15 PM »

CC - thanks for that. A few collets came with the lathe, there is a small disk that is inserted into the headstock and then the collets tightened with a draw bar. There isn`t a chuck so they must be 3mt collets.

Will the thread on future collets I purchase match up for the draw bar I own or not necessarly?

CrewCab · « **Reply #46 on:** August 08, 2009, 07:04:19 PM »

Quote from: craynerd on August 08, 2009, 05:52:15 PM

Will the thread on future collets I purchase match up for the draw bar I own

Should do AFAIK

CC

raynerd · « **Reply #47 on:** August 31, 2009, 08:15:48 PM »

I`m in the process of moving my workshop to the cellar - more space, more height ect and the boxford is due a good sorting out. I`m guilty of wading in and machining right away with shear excitement but now I need a little time looking at my machines. With my cellar near completion I`m thinking of a quick change toolpost as a treat. Does anyone have any recommendations ?

Chronos and RDG both offer what looks like the same holder @ just short of £100 inc. 5 tool posts: http://www.chronos.ltd.uk/cgi-local/sh000001.pl?REFPAGE=http%3a%2f%2fwww%2echronos%2eltd%2euk%2f&WD=quick%20change&PN=CHRONOS_2007_XMAS_OFFERS%2ehtml%23aMX90_2e#aMX90_2e

I think that the model 200 is Arc Euro tool post that fits the boxford - looks 3" and the boxford bore needs to be 5/8" = 0.625" = 15.875mm and the bore on this one is 16mm so I guess this is good enough? Has anyone any experience with this toolpost holder. I have to say, out of pure asthetics I do like the look of this one better: http://www.arceurotrade.co.uk/Catalogue/Machines-Accessories/Lathe-Accessories/Model-200-Quick-Change-Tool-Post-Set-Piston-Type

Gloster tooling seem to sell the same one as Arc Euro from what I can see in their catalogue at £105

So so so... before I just randomly pick one, has anyone got any suggestions or recommendations?

Chris

rleete · « **Reply #48 on:** September 01, 2009, 08:25:59 AM »

Not sure how much shipping across the pond would be, but check out http://www.cdcotools.com/index.php They have theirs on sale for $78.

raynerd · « **Reply #49 on:** September 01, 2009, 09:41:51 AM »

That seems like a great price - I think it has a 9" swing so do you think that the "up to 12"" QCTP they offer for $78 will be substantial enough? I may also be hit on import duty as well as postage.... hummm

need to think.

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Author Topic: It pays to talk - proud owner of a Box-ford Model "A" Lathe (Read 73751 times)