The Shop > Finishing

Blackening

<< < (4/5) > >>

PekkaNF:
There is a previous thread on homebrewed park
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8995.msg100238.html#msg100238

I bough manganese dioxide from a pottery supply store, pretty economical stuff.

it's hard to get consistent with homebrewed mixtures and not all of the scrabnioum iron ore metals take the finish equally well.

Pekka

tom osselton:

--- Quote from: PekkaNF on June 12, 2017, 01:36:20 AM ---There is a previous thread on homebrewed park
http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,8995.msg100238.html#msg100238

I bough manganese dioxide from a pottery supply store, pretty economical stuff.

it's hard to get consistent with homebrewed mixtures and not all of the scrabnioum iron ore metals take the finish equally well.

Pekka

--- End quote ---
In the link he says " Now you are ready to start the Parkerising process, pour the mixture in a stainless steel pot or pan of suitable size, obviously an old one that is not going to be used for cooking again, put a small piece of steel wool (about the size of a marble) in the mixture and bring it to boiling point. "
Why would the steel wool be needed?

awemawson:
From what I've read elsewhere it seems to 'kickstart' the chemical reaction to get the brew working in the first place

PekkaNF:
Yup, if you don't "bait" it with wire wool it will etch couple of first batch and then starts parkerizing. Note also that pretty much all of the wire wool you buy is rustproofed with oil....oil is best to be removed or it will not work.

My experience is that you need somewhat more than on that instruction....I found somewhere grams and when I weighted the amount of dry wire wool, it was a good tuft, more of a "hand" than a pinch :lol: for a two litres of park. In industrial setup on old times the amount of chemicals were pretty small, but temperature was pretty well controlled, whereas on the majority of the writeups temprerature was described from simmering to rolling boil, worst case nearly 30 degree variation, which seems way too random for this process.

Pekka

redshift:
It just so happens that I kept the example that was pictured in the Oct. 2013 thread as  mentioned in Tom Ossleton's post ^^ up here.
It has been kicking around my workshop for the past few years, during this time it has only been oiled (WD 40) once.
I don't think it's done too bad as most steel in my place manages to develop surface rust in a matter of a few weeks. If it had been oiled on a fairly regular basis I'm sure it would still be as good as new.
The second  pic is the fresh item and the following are as it is now.
Regards,  Dave

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version