The Shop > Finishing

Blackening

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PekkaNF:
Interesting...least three diferent prcesses are described here all having only one common nominator: Black.

I think that original method here that is imitated is japaning or japan black or it's variation.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Japan_black

Most typical use for me is the "black" on old Stanley plane inner parts.
http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolRestorations/ColdCureJapanning.html

BUT this does not work well on working surfaces. I would try to phosphate them. Personally I like tha metal gery sheen I get with vinegar or phosphorous acid. + oil.

Blackening/bluing with caustic near 160C temperature liquid is another process.

Then there are some cold bluing processes they produce pretty clean thin surface, but they don't seem to be as durable as original blueing.

Pekka

PK:
None of these process' compare to the nitrate black you get on things like good machine tooling.  Sadly, the chemical brew you need for that is nasty, even by my standards...
Parkorising (phosphate coating) isn't bad or hard to do and is commonly used on guns. Higher concentrations of phosphoric acid are tricky get in my part of the world though..

Biggles:
Take a look at this video. . i think that Brownels sell chemicals for blueing and Parkerizing.

AdeV:
Interesting writeup here: https://www.milsurps.com/showthread.php?t=43247

The guy in the link used a regular battery to get his manganese (and some zinc, which would explain his grey-ish result). Concentrated phosphoric acid is easy to obtain in the UK - just look on eBay, or buy direct from one of the companies. I presume Manganese Dioxide is also easy to get although I've never tried.

PK:
OK, gotta try that.
Thanks for posting

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