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A useful 3D print
Joules:
The powdered Rhino keeps the STL in check, though it can be embarrassing when it flares up at parties. My other half just tells me not to mention it when we are out.
Pete49:
all the more reason to make one Andrew. Having the edge version you can compare to the accuracy of the printed one. And we know you really want too :lol:
Pete
efrench:
How do you calibrate this when the lathe is not level, for example, sitting on a sloped garage floor?
Joules:
Use a second level across the bed and initially match the bubble positions. Once the tool height is correct you can then adjust the setting tool bubble to centre. It means the level tool can only be used on this machine accurately. But they are cheap enough to make one level per machine.
Lock the adjusting bolt with nail varnish.
The flat area along the bottom of the tool is the centre line of the bearing, so a set square base pressed against it allows the bolt position to be initially set. Do a test cut and see if you still get a pip, adjust the cutter as required. That way you don't need a second level, as above zero the bubble once calibrated.
Joules:
Example...
This is how I do the initial setup for the bolt position, it gets you pretty close.
Now setup a level on the bed and get the bubbles roughly in the same locations. You really are going to be out by a tiny amount unless the ship your lathe is on is in heavy seas. :lol:
Saying that, the old workshop in Christchurch was very much rock and roll. :headbang:
The above photo was staged using a washer under the tool and under the level, but you get the idea.
The workshop floor isn't level and the lathe is really out this much, but as mentioned before, a test cut confirms if your on centre, then adjust as needed. Once setup all the following tools can be set.
It sure makes swapping tools out in my limited number of quick change holders a lot simpler and quicker.
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