The Shop > CNC
Cetus3D 3D Printer
efrench:
Yes, you can start/stop printing at any height above the bed. How to do it depends on the slicer. Directly editing the gcode is pretty easy. You can also embed nuts, washers, reinforcing fibers, etc. You may not get the plastic to stick to a plain aluminum part/bed but adding an ABS slurry works for ABS and Nylon.
Weed whacker/trimmer nylon works pretty well. I haven't solved the stringing problem with it yet, but it's not to hard to design around it.
Henning:
The obstacle today as I, with my rather limited understanding see it, is that many materials need a heated bed. Now, let's say we were going to print a gasket for instance onto an aluminium part. We would then need to heat the part and keep it at that heat throughout the entire printing process. In addition, we would need to know the exact height of the part to be able to design the code to start at the exact height of the part. Currently I'm running an original Prusa I3 MK2, by many said to be the best "bang for buck" printer out there. It's a fabulous machine (if we choose to ignore the obvious lack of proper engineering... like fastening bearings with zip ties...) but I would struggle to be able to do this. Slicers are the least worry IMHO. They do a wonderful job and are easy to use.
awemawson:
As supplied my Cetus 3D gives you little access to directly controlling things, however setting the 'zero plane' for printing IS implemented in the set up tools as you need to account for different build tables. So in the case of a flat aluminium part fixed to the build table and needing the gasket applying it would just be a case of setting the top of it as 'ground zero'
There is an alternative (or add on - I'm not sure which) that allows direct use of G code for control - I've not yet explored that avenue as I have enough to learn with what I have :coffee:
PekkaNF:
Now this is getting interesting. :nrocks:
Prusa seems to be the general starting point, I don't like the mechanics. I understand the construction from that point of view that you can make it from hardware shop parts using only hand tools. But that lead somewhat less than ideal solution if you have lathe, milling machine and can work with aluminium exrusion and such.
Another thing is the configuration. Plenty of freedom if you only extrude light structures. Somehow I would like more strong screw actuated Z-axis (table) and lightweight/fast X/Y gantry.
I would exhange the heat table any time to heatable fixure/heatsink construction with external PID controller et.al. Thin, lightweigh plate is harder to keep uniform hot and straight.
Another thing I ahve been thinkking is "syringe" exruder. Bit like in lab those metering syringes with stepper drive or the origninal DIY 3D printer.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fab@Home
Pekka
efrench:
A couple of years ago, I watched an MIT demo of a conductive extrusion ink/paste that used a syringe extruder. Ceramic extruders are using compressed air to control the syringe.
Navigation
[0] Message Index
[#] Next page
[*] Previous page
Go to full version