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3D printer build log
spuddevans:
--- Quote from: nrml on May 08, 2017, 04:43:32 PM ---Will you be using a water cooled hot end if you are going to have an enclosed build chamber?
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I haven't decided whether to watercool yet, I like the idea, I'm just not sure how the water-filled tubes will effect the free movement of the print-head, perhaps if I used very flexible (perhaps silicone) tubing?
Thanks for that info Pekka, That's the error (abbe) I'm trying to avoid. If I'm understanding it correctly, I did have this error on my mill for a while, the head was trammed to the table fine, when I used a short spotting drill to start a hole and then raised the head up to fit the much longer drill bit in I found the tip of the drill-bit was slightly off from the spotted hole, despite the head reading ok when I trammed it!! (I ended up having to tear the head down completely to shim the castings to get everything correctly set up)
I got the brackets made today, just a couple of 8mm x 10mm x 43mm scraps of ali, with a slot milled in it to accommodate the upper bearing.
Not much, but some forward progress.
Tim
nrml:
There are some very neat and easy to implement ideas for water cooled hot ends on this thread https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/e3d-water-cooled-mod.53/
Something like that connected to a little peltier water cooler unit like the ones sold on aliexpress.com and a computer CPU water cooling pump/reservoir would make a really neat water cooled hot end.
spuddevans:
--- Quote from: nrml on May 10, 2017, 05:14:45 PM ---There are some very neat and easy to implement ideas for water cooled hot ends on this thread https://forum.e3d-online.com/index.php?threads/e3d-water-cooled-mod.53/
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:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup:
Thanks for that link, that's given me a lot to think about. Hmm :coffee:
I am definitely leaning towards water cooling, and can think of some ideas for water-cooling the steppers as well. :mmr:
Tim
hanermo:
Great build !
I like the att. to detail and the high qty of mechanical components You did.
spuddevans:
Thanks hanermo :thumbup:
I got a little time in the workshop and started by drilling some oblong holes. (now I know why square drill bits are so expensive, but they would have saved a lot of sweat and effort with drills & files)
This might make it a bit more obvious what they are for
ok, one more
From another angle
The square holes are pretty rough looking, I will tidy them up a bit later when the belt path is more precisely known. I could have got away with making both of the holes the same size (the smaller size), but hey ho, it is what it is.
Next up will be drilling and tapping the carriage blocks for grub screws to grip the 8mm x-axis bars, and shortening the same 8mm bars to their proper length. This will allow me to measure precisely the distance between centres of the pulleys of both carriages, then I can make up a bracket to hold the pulleys at the front of the printer frame (for the rest of the belt path). I will probably also drill and tap a couple of holes to stop the 12mm linear bearings from sliding out.
Then will be the making of the mounting hardware for the X & Y steppers. I've been thinking about the X & Y resolution, using 200 step stepper motors, and even using 16 tooth pulleys on the steppers, that will give me a full-step resolution of 0.16mm (32 mm of belt movement per rev, divided by 200 steps per rev = ) Using 20 tooth pulleys on the steppers will give me 0.2mm full-step resolution.
However, I have had a cunning plan. I have a couple of 36 tooth pulleys, which I could pair with either 20 or 16 tooth pulleys, and make a belt-drive reduction (I also have some short loops of GT2 belt) of either 2.25:1 or 1.8:1. As I have no experience with 3d printers, has anyone any experience with adding belt-reduction "gearing" to increase the resolution?
I know about micro-stepping, and I will definitely be using that (primarily to quieten the steppers), but I do know that the individual micro-steps are not exactly evenly spaced between full steps, hence the thought that micro-stepping would not be the most accurate way of increasing resolution.
On the other hand, adding a belt-driven reduction may also increase "springy-ness" ( actual scientific term there ) and resonance when abrupt direction changes are made. It certainly will reduce the travel speed by the same factor of reduction, but will also increase the torque.
If anyone has any thoughts/opinions, speak now ( or later, I won't be working on this part for a couple of weeks or more )
Until next time....
Tim
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