"Regal" 0-4-0 Oscillator in Gauge 1, Progress and Updates

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xo18thfa:
Hi frazer. Since Regal is alcohol fired I decided to go with a vertical boiler with a horizontal water leg to make it look like a "T" boiler. I think there is a lot of flexibility in the boiler design. I have some 2" dia thin wall (.032") copper tube for the vertical leg and 1-1/2 for the horizontal leg. But I think those can vary. The center flue up the vertical leg is 3/4" common plumbing pipe with some 1/4" cross water tube. Before going final on the center flue, I will make one up and test how the flame passes thru.

Our club track has a 32mm loop that's in dis-repair. I should fix it up and do a "Cracker" according the plan.

Thanks, Bob

xo18thfa:
Make the end beams from the same material as the frames. Here is the drawing for the end beam and other parts used in this section.

Use the same general method to make the end beams. Regal uses a brass screw in eye hooks as couplers. Drill the end beam exactly in the center for a tight fit screw hook and soft solder in place. Shape the end beam as desired, but maintain overall dimension and spacing of holes.

Next are the bearings. There are 8 bearings total. Seven are for axles, gear counter shaft and the flywheel end of the crank. One extra length bearing is on the cylinder end of the crank. Make the bearing from 3/8" diameter round brass. Use a squared end parting tool work for all the machining steps.

Use the parting tool to turn the shoulder portion of the bearing. Turn the shoulder slightly under 5/16" so they fit easily in the frames. Center drill and drill with #21.

#21 drill is 0.159" diameter. The axles are from 5/32" ground and polished stock. The fit is very slightly loose, but not sloppy. Next part the bearing off the stock.

The frames and end beam assemble with brass angle gussets in the corners. Make four gussets as shown in the drawing. Brass angle is ideal, however, aluminum angle available from Lowe's or Home Depot works fine. Here are the frame parts ready to assemble.

The hot rolled steel plate used for the frames and end beams has a blackened scale coating from the rolling process. Prior to assembly, remove the scale by soaking the parts in swimming pool acid. Assemble the frame using 0 x 80 machine screws and model hex nuts. Cut some lengths of 5/32" diameter ground and polished steel, either cold rolled or stainless. Slip the bearings into position using the axles for alignment.

The frames are drilled to allow the engine to be on either side. Ensure the longer crank bearing is on the side of choice. Flux and soft solder the bearings in place using the axle stock for alignment.

Clean up the frame assembly and test fit the gears. Everything turns smoothly.

Next time is wheel turning.

fcheslop:
Thanks Bob, so she is a wee bit like a Cracker T. The standard cracker is a good little engine although if I was to build her again I would extend the rear of the frames and mount the gas tank underneath. I used Tony Birds poker type burner and it worked well straight from the drawings. I did add an extra boiler bush for a safety valve just my way I guess
Thanks for the info
cheers
frazer

xo18thfa:
Hi Frazer. I moved the crank shaft 1/4" forward to make more room for the fuel tank as well.

xo18thfa:
The wheels on Regal follow the Gauge One Model Railroad Association (G1MRA) recommended practice. G1MRA's practice is available from their website. The G1MRA practice calls for a 3 degree taper on the wheel rim and 20 degree taper on he outer edge of the flange. Wheels can be either steel, brass, stainless, cast iron or aluminum. Aluminum works very well for wheels. It is easy to machine and has a great deal of friction on the rails. Here is the wheel drawing:

Start with a 1/2" long slab of 1-3/8" diameter round stock. Chuck in the three jaw chuck.

Drill and ream to 5/32" diameter for the axles. Face turn the outer hub to 3/8" diameter and 0.069" deep. The .069 hub depth allows for a 0.010" side to side clearance of the wheel sets in the frames.

Next turn a shoulder that serves as the wheel rim. Leave the rim turned straight for now. The 3 degree taper will come later.

Turn a decorative recess about 1/16" deep.

Reverse the wheel blank in the chuck and turn the backside. Turn the flange to a thickness of .060".

Repeat the process 3 more times. Here are the wheel blanks ready for final turning.

Make a turning spud from a length of the axle materiel and scrap 3/4" round stock. "Loctite" the axle material into the spud body. Tap the end for 4 x 40 machine screw.

Mount a wheel blank on the spud. Use a dial indicator to ensure the blank is perfectly centered in the 4 jaw chuck.

Set the compound rest on the lathe to 3 degrees. Take very light cuts until the entire rim is tapered to 3 degrees. Be careful not to reduce the root diameter of the wheel.

Turn all the wheel rims with the 3 degree setting. The set the compound to 20 degrees to taper the flanges.

After tapering the flange, use a hand file to round over the flange and break the sharp corner on the edge of the rim. Finish the remaining 3 wheels in the same manner.

Clamp the wheels in the milling machine vice at about 30 degrees. Sandwich the wheel in wood to protect the flanges. Drill and tap for a 6 x 32 set screw. Drill into the corner between the hub and wheel back.

Wheels all finished.

Next time is the crank shaft, flywheel and finish up the rolling chassis.

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