The Shop > Tools
Can runout or deflection cause a router to kickback?
awemawson:
Surely you would be able to feel significant play in the shaft if the bearings are bad enough to be causing your problem :scratch:
seadog:
I'd go for bearings too. The initial bite kicks the cutter away from the workpiece which, because of the speed involved, then throws the cutter deeper into the wood.
sparky961:
Still seems odd the part would get launched so quickly/easily. Maybe too light a grip on the work piece due (understandably) to fear of the screaming router with spinning sharp tool right next to one's fingers? This is one reason I suggested a video showing what's going on.
RichardDepetris:
--- Quote from: sparky961 on February 05, 2017, 04:04:12 PM ---Still seems odd the part would get launched so quickly/easily. Maybe too light a grip on the work piece due (understandably) to fear of the screaming router with spinning sharp tool right next to one's fingers? This is one reason I suggested a video showing what's going on.
--- End quote ---
Hmm. Thought about that as well, but I was able to use a round over on the same piece without issues aside from burning and tear out.
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PekkaNF:
I bought a router and learning curve was steep and riddled with flying pieces and splinters.
If the router makes screaming or "brakes skidding" sound when it is winding down bearings are shot and needs to be replaced. On old router the grease has been expired long ago. often the bearing is a bit marginal for the rpm to start with. Note to myself: buy bearing for Festo. These are not normal RS sealed bearings, but they are noncontact seal types, or they would heat up in no time. Spare parts here the way to go and not "new old stock" but new-new. Bearings are shot way before you feel anythings, so probably it is not the bearings for kick back.
I'm just saying that that it takes a little time to get used to routing. Unlike metal, wood has a structure and it might dictate to climb mill, but you really have to be slow, controlled and delibrate or you will be performing some awkward new dance moves...
My first advice would be clamp the workpiece down like there is no tomorrow. Don't rout slender pieces. If you need a small piece, first rout it while it is nice big piece to clamp, then saw it of. Even a little bit vibration and it will bite and piece or router will ricochet.
Don't get greedy and hog out. Take small cuts.
Control the speed of the cut and soft initial touch. Or actually slow and delibrate initial touch. Also 800 w router with 5 mm bit will need completely different approach (easy to snap the small cutter) than 2 kw monster with big "disc".
And keep your all digitt up where you can see them.
But when it works. It makes a lot of stuff so easy and fast.
Pekka
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