Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs

New Tractor Shed

<< < (56/74) > >>

Pete W.:
Wow!  That's amazing, I bet you're pleased to have reached that stage.

Two questions, one serious, the other just a little tongue in cheek:

Do the 'preferential crack slots' sever the rebar?

I've just got to know - what did you do with all that concrete in the dumper truck?!? 

hermetic:
 superb Job Andrew, My next workshop job, almost the last job, is to break up and re lay a 9m x 6m slab, like you I will be getting "the lads" in to do it!! Powerfloat finish is amazing, and I have had enough of trolley jacks, engine cranes and the like sticking on the bumpy floor, and dropping into the holes, It has got to go! I really like the concrete going under the walls, completely rat proof! Almost there!
Phil

Pete.:

--- Quote from: PekkaNF on August 31, 2017, 12:36:44 PM ---Ever wonder why the power floater is called here "helicopter" :lol: Surely if amateur tries it.

Pekka

--- End quote ---

Like this?

awemawson:
Thanks chaps for the thoughts  :thumbup:

Pete, the crack inducing slots are I believe about 50 mm deep so should miss the re-bar by quite a way. The surplus concrete was spread out thinly over the pile of crushed concrete so it can easily be reduced to crush when needed !

Roller shutter should go in next week, so we should be weathertight then and I can start with the wiring and plumbing but there is still quite a bit of landscaping and fencing to do as well as an entry ramp and 'Aco' storm drain to install.

Pete.:

--- Quote from: Pete W. on August 31, 2017, 12:43:15 PM ---Wow!  That's amazing, I bet you're pleased to have reached that stage.

Two questions, one serious, the other just a little tongue in cheek:

Do the 'preferential crack slots' sever the rebar?


--- End quote ---

Nope, they use a much wider blade than average which even if it hit the rebar would take an age to cut through it, especially on the typically lower powered saw they would use.

I've cut hundreds of meters of crack-inducer cuts. Don't like doing it because there's no margin for error - any slight wobble in the cut line stands out a mile. The bigger/better saws actually have a bias adjustment on the rear axle so you can put a bit of 'turn' on the saw to counteract the tendency to turn when pushing the blade mounted on one side. It's handy if you do a lot of roadway work where the blade is always on the same side but if you do work where you have to swap sides like we do you set it to track straight and counter-steer manually by leaning hard on the handle otherwise it's harder to cope with when you swap sides on the blade and the bias is working the wrong way.

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[#] Next page

[*] Previous page

Go to full version