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New Tractor Shed
NormanV:
I was once responsible (unqualified)for the casting of a reinforced concrete roof. I watched the man using a vibrator to compact the concrete. It still left voids, and it cracked, and I got the sack.
I won't accept that responsibility again!
At least there is nothing for your floor to fall on!
awemawson:
I used to have two concrete vibrators.
One was an eccentric weight in a housing on the end of a long flexible drive driven by an electric motor. The other was pneumatic and had a reciprocating weight. Both were frighteningly effective.
You could fill a cavity to the brim with fairly wet concrete and start vibrating - it would drop the level to perhaps two-thirds. The resulting concrete was amazingly solid.
PK:
I don't have any pics, But I once built a concrete vibrator for a guy making concrete tables and benchtops.
Nothing special about my work, a length of 1" stainless with a few bearings and an eccentric weight at one end and an adapter to a big drill at the other.
His work was pretty impressive though, http://www.mapleart.net.au/ChrisMaple/
He used massive wooden molds with many sash clamps, and his workshop was like a chem lab for concrete when he was trying out different mixes to get the effects....
All of which is particularly relevant to your tractor shed Andrew. So pay attention..
:thumbup:
Pete.:
A 3 tonne vibro roller will make ground easily firm enough to use as a road. Usual spec for a piling mat is roll every 300mm but that's gotta ho!d a 60 ton piling rig - and pass a plate test which is something you don't wanna fail coz you'll have to dig it all out and do it again.
I've also seen people pop a shutter by over-hunting a vibrating poker. It can build up a lot of pressure and lift the shutter up if it's not pinned down enough or simply burst it if it's not built sturdily enough.
awemawson:
So as the structural bits are on hold until the concrete is poured hopefully on Tuesday, I thought that I had better get some of the infrastructure brought forward ready.
Between each of my buildings I have laid 110 mm underground drain pipes as ducting, and this has proved very useful over the years as bits have been added to telephone and Ethernet networks. My main workshop is connected to my Woodwork shop by such a duct, but it has never been used. As the Tractor Shed will derive it's services from the Woodwork Shop it was time to pull some cables through. Already it was connected to water and compressed air via 25 mm blue MDPE pipe, and had a heavyish 3 phase feed, all of which were laid in a separate trench when the building was built. But I want Ethernet in the Tractor Shed so that wired security cameras can be put up, and while I was at it I may as well pull a telephone cable through.
Each end of most of these inter-building ducts are terminated in a plastic box housing a Cat5 (or 6) Patch Panel and at least one Krone telephone connection block. Several have an adjacent ethernet hub to fan out to local connections.
So I pulled through a 6 pair telephone cable and two Cat 5e ethernet cables, leaving a pull through rope in the duct for next time.
While I was about it, I wired in an extra socket close to the termination cabinet, ready for the associated hub, which this time is so small it will fit in the cabinet itself - far neater.
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