Titivating A CNC Plasma Table

The Craftmans Shop > New from Old

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awemawson:
John, I've assembled and fitted the blue series and must say that I'm quite impressed with them as a robust solution - went in nicely with no drama's and are very compact for their 20 amp rating - not that I'm using them to carry that - probably a few milliamps at most !

... so much better than the previous 12v bullet connectors :bugeye:

John Swift:

Hi Andrew

I have always thought Neutrik connectors are worth the extra money

I don't know if you found the mains connector you have used have passing resemblance to the
speakon connector -

http://www.canford.co.uk/Products/43-081_NEUTRIK-SPEAKON-NL8FC-Cable-connector

they could be a useful 2 to 8 pole connector

John

PS

I can't wait to see your project for 2017 :D

awemawson:
Sorted a couple of little irritations this lunchtime.

I was fed up with the PC/Keyboard arm being on the slant - I'd intended to pull it off and give it a permanent 'set' in the press, but if I changed the monitor or keyboard (quite likely) the weight would differ and it again would tilt. I can up with the idea of making it adjustable, pressing a stainless steel hinge (that I happen to have left over from another project) into service to mount a tilting flap onto which the arm could fix. Then a simple screw adjuster would let me tilt it at whatever angle that I wanted to achieve a level keyboard and monitor. Works like a charm :ddb:

I was away yesterday and last night, and came back to a pile of electrical goodies to re-arrange the mains input side of this machine, which is something for another day. But also in the pile was a packet of PG9 cable glands, so at last I've properly secured the 'arc voltage' cable where it comes out of the Hypertherm Powermax 45 plasma machine.

awemawson:

--- Quote from: vintageandclassicrepairs on December 26, 2016, 06:39:26 PM ---
The panel door should be interlocked usually through an isolator with door mounted handle, so the panel door cannot be opened when the isolator is in the "on" position

Regards
John

--- End quote ---

John, your post got me thinking, and I've decided that to put in a cabinet isolator is not only sensible, but resolves other issues on my mains wiring revision, so although I had one in stock I've ordered one that's slightly smaller and hence more convenient for this cabinet and fitting it is the next job, so thanks for the prompt :clap:

awemawson:
After super this evening, I fitted the electrical interlock that prevents the cabinet being opened when powered up. Not wired in, but that's the easy bit - getting the door actuator part and the inside switch part correctly aligned takes a bit of careful measurement. To be effective the interlock needs to be on the far side away from the hinges, or there would be too much leverage and it would easily be broken. Ideally it should be on the right hand side at the same height as the mechanical lock, but that wasn't possible, so it's in a compromise position which will be fine.

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