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| 626 mill riser block |
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| RobWilson:
Looking good John :thumbup: Just dont drop it on your foot :lol: Rob |
| John Rudd:
After cleaning down the lathe ans bagging up all the swarf....("Er-indoors " complains if I just sweep and put it all in the bin..... :Doh: ) time to turn attention to marking out for the 3 new bolt holes in the top..... Now for anyone contemplating making one of these, dont use the dimensions on the drawing from the Yahoo groups website....they are not suited to the Chester 626 mill... |
| John Rudd:
:update: In order to make the 3 bolt holes on a pcd, I measured many times......the drawing said 112 mm....but as I said previously, dont take the drawing as gospel..... I ended up making a cardboard donut to slip over the spigot on the mill head to determine the approx location and then used some male intuition.....( we are allowed aren't we.....) I reckoned on a pcd of 116mm and thats what I went with.... Spent the rest of the morning laboriously marking out, drilling, tapping and cutting.....I bought some 70mm ht bolts for the top end, even they were too long....Nonetheless better than being too short! Here's the latest shots.... |
| John Rudd:
So next task is to mill the nut pockets and drill the clearance holes on a 116mm pcd in the base and that should be about it..... Oh, for Rob's benefit, here's me posing to show I can still reach the drawbar...... :lol: :lol: |
| John Rudd:
The nut pockets look quite deep....if I mill them with an end mill, there's quite a bit of metal to remove... :dremel: They really only need to be deep enough un the middle to accomodate the nut and slip a spanner on....So I'm thinking of a radiussed pocket.....dont think a boring bar or head will do it, if I still had my Ajax mill I could have done it with a side and face mill.... :Doh: Thoughts are using a side and face mill on an arbor or a thick slit saw...... :scratch: I could mill out most using a ripper end mill first and clean up with a slit saw? What do you guys think? |
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