To Paint Or Not To Paint

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Fergus OMore:
Thanks Andrew! My suspicions were whiting but with boiled linseed oil but with a fair old bit of cobalt napthenate to accelerate the 'gel'

The trouble is trying to get adhesion with the filler soaked with a non drying oil- whereas it was originally.

I've just acquired an ancient ML10 with the usual successive tarted up Hammerite re-coatings over the years. 'Scotty' who invented Hammerite is no longer with the firm after leaving RCL at Dunston. Long story- not here though.

:doh:Thinks that I'll have to concoct my own synthetic filler as I did after my S7B was slideways ground. Trouble is that it is a lot of work on a dead cheap little machine .

Thanks

Norman

awemawson:
Some foundries were notorious for making castings look 'fair' by filing blow holes and sinks with a mixture of black lead and iron filings (iron not steel - that's important). Done carefully you could barely tell what had happened :bugeye:

I seem to remember that there was a concoction of flowers of sulphur and iron filings that set rock hard and could even be tapped (it was claimed)

From: http://www.iforgeiron.com/topic/26942-repair-to-a-firepot/

A cement for stopping clefts or fissure of iron vessels can be made of the following: Two ounces muriate of ammonia, I ounce of flowers of sulphur, and I pound of cast-iron filings or borings. Mix these well in a mortar, but keep the mortar dry. When the cement -is wanted, take one part of this and twenty parts of clean iron borings, grind- together in a mortar. Mix water to make a dough of proper consistence and apply between the cracks. This will be useful for flanges or joints of pipes and doors of steam engines.

Fergus OMore:
I agree but I suspect that mercury becomes involved!

Sort of a variant on silver amalgam. Still got a lot of it-as an investment( dental pun used by my late wife) :lol:

PK:
Molten sulfur is used as a rock bolt anchor in some applications.

Manxmodder:

--- Quote from: Jo on August 25, 2016, 03:07:29 AM ---They also need to be done in the right sort of paint otherwise in no time they are back looking worse than they started. Tool dealers used to have nasty habit of repainting Myfords before they resell them: What should have been a Grey machine was painted Green so they could ask more money for it.

When I look to buy a machine I prefer one that is in its original paint. You can see how its been used or abused.

Having said that I brought a Signal Red :palm: painted Sixis 101 and I know of a Schaublin SV12 that was a very nasty shade of Jaffa Orange :loco: when it was picked up. The Sixis had the offending paint scraped off leaving the original (much harder) metallic green and the Schaublin was blasted and re-enamelling its original colour.

Jo

P.S. I was told the two Swiss machines were repainted in "security paint" to make them easily recognised if stolen. If you take the case of the 101 it originally cost more new then your average 3 bed house at the time, it is easily dismantled and fits in the back of a family car, so security was an issue.

--- End quote ---

I reckon you couldn't resist a Hardinge in hot pink :bugeye: .....OZ.

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