| The Breakroom > The Water Cooler |
| Stove Black |
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| mattinker:
--- Quote from: Manxmodder on July 16, 2016, 04:09:21 AM ---Pekka,the gears are already in mesh with each other as they are all still mounted in the original yokes,so no work needed on that front. There is no paint on them,just old grease & oil and no rust at all. I certainly won't be using anything that requires heating them......OZ. --- End quote --- Just a thought, as it's not going to get heated, linseed oil would be better than olive oil just for it's drying qualities. Regards, matthew |
| Manxmodder:
Mathew,thanks for your suggestion and yes it crossed my mind and I agree with your logic here. In my younger career days I spent 4 years working as a glassmaker/glassblower trainee. In that profession cast iron molds are are often used to form the external shape of large decanters,wine carafes,goblets and vases. The molten glass being blown to form by a blower who stands on an elevated platform to give him sufficient reach over the length of the blowing iron,whilst the mold operator(usually the trainee) squats at ground level to open and close the iron mold as required. To ensure a flawless exterior surface finish on the glass items the molds require a lining of powdered cork be bonded to the inner faces and for this purpose we used boiled linseed as the bonding agent for the cork. After a mold had been re-lined with cork powder the lining was set by heating in a kiln and final tempered by blowing several test pieces through the mold to bed the lining in. I know I've waffled on a bit but it is the 'watercooler' and I had great passion then, as I still do today, for the hand made glass trade. Boiled linseed sets up to such a hard shellac like compound that media blasting is often the only thing effective to completely remove it. I'm trying Doubleboost's method out as I have every confidence that if John says it works then it's well worth giving it a go. Also worth noting that all vegetable based oils seem to have a drying/thickening characteristic if heated or oxidised so olive oil is also likely to dry and set,though perhaps not as hard as boiled linseed.......OZ. Edited to add: Mathew, you've got me thinking now......perhaps mixing powdered graphite with danish oil would also be worth a try. Danish oil is designed to air dry. |
| Manxmodder:
Stove lit and slowly brought up to high temperature.......the whole house smells like a bakery :drool: very much the same as when I bake bread. After sitting at high temp for a few minutes I turned the air controls right down and waited for the heat to drop and then a light buffing with a soft cotton rag brings forth a really nice black graphite lustre :D Thanks John,that works very well. If nothing else it has given me a sound basis to build on for other experimental blacking compounds. |
| DMIOM:
--- Quote from: Manxmodder on July 19, 2016, 04:45:18 AM ---Stove lit and slowly brought up to high temperature....... --- End quote --- Is that why it's so hot today! :coffee: (p.s. which Mill is the machinery in? - is it one of those in the Examiner today perchance?) Dave |
| mattinker:
OZ, I suggested linseed oil as it is a well known drying oil for which there are well known siccatives (drying agents) and it was the base for paints and varnishes. I don't doubt for an instant that Olive oil will work on a stove, just I know linseed oil will work without heat! Regards, Matthew |
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