Gallery, Projects and General > Project Logs
Elmers #25, my first engine project
SPiN Racing:
Coming along nicely!!
I cuss a lot and shake my head complaining about Brass VS Stainless steel when doing things on my stuff. The majority of the material I have is either Stainless or Tool Steel. Either of which is a bear if you dont do things right. This I know because if you look back through my posts you see me asking questions like.. Why doesnt this cut smoothly, or why is this so tough?
I can actually work with stainless fairly ok now.. Not good.. but OK. But as you mentioned.. a sharp tool is the secret.
Another secret I discovered... I use the generic re-grindable Carbide tipped tools for aluminum and brass and normal steels.
I invested in a set of indexable carbite tool bits from ebay for the lathe when turning stainless, and or tool steel. Makes a HUGE difference. The stuff cuts like butter with a good sharp indexed tool. Granted... if you are spinning a smaller diameter piece of metal it can be difficult. I just take a lot smaller cut to reduce deflection, and increase accuracy of my cuts. Takes longer but less cleanup after the fact.
I seriously have a hankering to make a engine.
(Must finish tool holders.. all 18 of them)
spuddevans:
--- Quote from: Bernd on May 12, 2009, 07:12:00 PM ---Now, I went back and looked at your cylinder with the pivot in it. Are you going to forget to drill the entery hole for the air into the cylinder? :poke: Just wondering. :)
--- End quote ---
Well spotted!! Actually I deliberately have not drilled it yet. I figure on assembling the whole thing together, positioning the crank so that the cylinder is in the right position for the exhaust hole in the frame to line up with where the inlet hole is meant to be on the cylinder, and then spotting through to accurately mark up the postion. Does that make any sense outside of my head?
--- Quote from: Divided he ad on May 12, 2009, 07:21:02 PM ---As Darren said "nice clear pictures" I know you said about the DSLR, But have you got very good lighting in there too? They are very bright and unshadowed!
--- End quote ---
Thanks Ralph, Yea I have a flash(canon 580) mounted on my camera(canon 400d), but rather that aiming the flash dead ahead I aim it straight at the (grubby)white ceiling to bounce the flash. It provides a nice even, mostly shadowless light. My regular workshop lighting is 2 flurescents, 1 5-foot and 1 4-foot.
--- Quote from: SPiN Racing on May 12, 2009, 11:25:01 PM ---Another secret I discovered... I use the generic re-grindable Carbide tipped tools for aluminum and brass and normal steels.
I invested in a set of indexable carbite tool bits from ebay for the lathe when turning stainless, and or tool steel. Makes a HUGE difference. The stuff cuts like butter with a good sharp indexed tool. Granted... if you are spinning a smaller diameter piece of metal it can be difficult. I just take a lot smaller cut to reduce deflection, and increase accuracy of my cuts. Takes longer but less cleanup after the fact.
--- End quote ---
I have a couple of indexable carbide tools and found like you said that it cuts better on stainless, my trouble was with single point threading such a small diameter. I think I'll resharpen my Hss threading tool, take lighter cuts, and if needed use a steady rest to try and stop the workpiece riding up onto the tool. Either that or try using a M3 die (which will hopefully arrive in the post today :thumbup:)
Tim
Darren:
That's one expensive flash unit you are using..... :bugeye:
No wonder you keep it all under a rag till needed.
I use a 350D and have to say I'm very happy with it, but I'll stick to the inbuilt flash for now cos I'm a skinflint.... :ddb:
Bernd:
--- Quote from: spuddevans on May 13, 2009, 04:59:34 AM ---
--- Quote from: Bernd on May 12, 2009, 07:12:00 PM ---Now, I went back and looked at your cylinder with the pivot in it. Are you going to forget to drill the entery hole for the air into the cylinder? :poke: Just wondering. :)
--- End quote ---
Well spotted!! Actually I deliberately have not drilled it yet. I figure on assembling the whole gether, positioning the crank so that the cylinder is in the right position for the exhaust hole in the frame to line up with where the inlet hole is meant to be on the cylinder, and then spotting through to accurately mark up the postion. Does that make any sense outside of my head?
Tim
--- End quote ---
Never thought of doing it that way. Sure would put the hole in a more precise location.
See even a newbie can teach a guy that built two of these new tricks. :headbang:
Bernd
spuddevans:
Today's update.
I started out by sharpening my threading tool and spending 15-20 mins trying to single point 3mm 303 stainless for the con-rod. Deciding that beating my head against that particular spike was not fruitful :bang:, I moved on to machining a new con-rod out of brass. This was much easier.
Then I extended a bit more out of the chuck and turned that down.
Once turned to size it was over onto the mill, I mounted it into the spin indexer thingy, supported the free end with a 3-2-1 block and a little stepped thingy and drilled out the hole for the crank, 2.4mm if I recall correctly.
After a little cleaning up and filing the edges round I have a piston with con-rod :headbang:
After that I had a little time so I made a start on the crankshaft assembly, specifically on the crank disc which I made out of some unidentified steel, turned some down to 17.5mm, hacksawed it off and remounted it in the ER32 chuck, faced it off and then drilled it 4mm.
So next will be the offset hole, and then the actual shafts.
Thats all for now, gotta run out to the post office to pick up some goodies.
Tim
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