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| efrench:
I don't have any problem getting PLA to stick to a glass bed even without heating the bed. I use 3M blue tape and wipe it with isopropyl alcohol. The alcohol makes a big difference. It works just as well with a heated bed. For ABS, it works too well. It's really hard to get remove the print from the bed and even harder to remove the tape from the ABS. Do you have a print cooling fan running after the first layer? |
| Joules:
Ouch !!! Pete that is just nasty..... Has your hot end got a blockage ? It looks very much like interrupted feed. Does the hot end have a ptfe liner, it could be damaged and trapping the filaments free movement. Can you extrude an uninterrupted filament with the head above the table. :bugeye: Is the filament extruding straight out or curling back onto the head. Pictures of your print head would be good. Have you calibrated the extruded for outputting 100mm of filament, it would then be worth extruding 100mm worth out the hot end to confirm the extruded is really pushing the full amount of filament out. |
| Pete49:
Hi Joules yep the hot end has a ptfe liner. I will check it tonight. I was thinking something is blocked but wanted confirmation before I pull it down. I may try a longer filament run before it starts to print to see if it helps. Just how deep is the liner supposed to go? All the way to the nozzle or just short of it? I replaced the original liner as it was damaged when I got the printer but the supplier sent me a 3 foot piece so I just guestimated it and I think it goes into the nozzle which may be the problem at least now I'm starting to think it may well be. efrench I don't have tape as I never needed it on the other printer. Once I get this working right I will be going back to ABS as I have lot of it and PLA can't handle the outback sun very well and breaks down quick. I'm only using the PLA as it was supplied with the kit. Pete |
| Joules:
Depends on the design of the print head, the ptfe should end at the top of the heat block as you would want the filament in contact with the heat as best you can. That doesn't mean it couldn't extend to the nozzle, but it's not a good idea. The ptfe should be cut as square as possible. If you see feathering of the edge, hot or cold end it's likely trapping the filament. If you can put a drill shank in the ptfe and cut with a razor by rolling the ptfe, this will avoid uneven cut and the chance of picking up the filament. Cutting with snips or scissors is a bad idea. Be good to see a picture of your ptfe tube when taken out of the head, and the head components when they are apart. I had this problem early on with the Rostock Max before changing to an E3D print head. |
| ddmckee54:
Pete: How fast are you trying to print? I had/have similar print quality problems with my printer when I try to print too fast. At the present time I don't make any print moves faster than 40mm/s, although I'm slowly finding the parameters that I need to tweak and I'm bumping the print speed up a little at a time. I agree about printing a LOT of the test cubes. One thing that I did was I made my cube look like a die?(Pair of dice?) Never can remember which is the singular form and which is the plural form. Anywho, adding the dice faces only adds a few minutes to the print time and I have no question about how it was oriented when the cube was printed. Right now I'm trying to correct an issue I've got. When I print an inside corner, an inside corner on an overhang, the outside perimeter filament will sometimes tear loose. Which just causes compound problems on the next layers, since there is NOTHING for the perimeter filament to print on. I've found that it's REAL hard to print an inside corner on nothing but air. Don |
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