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J&S 540 Carriage Lock ????

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awemawson:
OK had a look see - no bracket!

It seems that they've just extended the 'top plate' that the controls poke through to give a base for it. What is the 'round knob' that sits on / through that plate that sits over the Y travel trip - is it just a reset?

awemawson:
Well thanks to Joe I've done a bit of cogitating and believe that it's feasible to fit a carriage lock using the 'trip dogs' by mounting a mounting block on the horizontal surface that surrounds the controls.

This surface is a piece of 1/8" steel plate covering the innards, and has the controls protruding though. I've removed it years ago when I titivated the grinder, but I cannot remember how much clearance, if any, there is under it for screw heads to hold the mounting block down. If needs must I can use counter sunk headed screws, but they are not very secure in thin plate.

When time permits I'll pull the plate off but mean while I've cut a mounting block and a stop block as 'proof of concept'. The idea is that the mounting block is screwed to the horizontal plate in a place where it doesn't interfere with the carriage movement. Then two horizontal cap screws will mount a temporary 'stop block' to the rear of it that can be pinched between the adjustable 'trip dogs' thus locking the carriage. In normal use the 'stop block' can be removed, but fitted when the carriage needs locking, as in my case of grinding the taper using a Unigrind fitting.

I'll hold off drilling and tapping the two blocks until that cover is off incase things need moving about a bit.

j1312v:
Well thought Andrew :nrocks:

I only remember seen the table being lock a few times at my last workplace and mostly it was on a different surface grinder specially set-up to relief punches.

The 'round knob' is a stop bottom to the cross feed, another rarely used feature  :D

awemawson:
OK a bit of spare time today so I was able to get on and finish the carriage lock  :thumbup:

First I removed the cover plate, which involved removing the operating levers. All very easy except for the little one that controls the cross feed force. It's retained with a taper pin, and due to it's limited rotation I couldn't get a punch on it's smaller end in a direct line. Ended up warming it up a bit with the torch and out it came.

This proved that there was masses of room for the block retaining bolt's heads. After a bit of cleaning up inside I put the cover and levers back temporarily to let me surface grind the blocks I'd made

awemawson:
So then I drilled and tapped the mounting block and drilled corresponding holes in the cover plate, and put it all back together temporarily so that I could surface grind the bits.

The "feed speed lever" and "trip lever" are mounted on splines, and each has a peg pointing downwards into a brass cut out that limits their arc of travel, so putting them back and getting the phasing correct is a bit of a faff. The spline shafts will turn a full 360 degrees and presumably has hydraulic oil ports cross drilled to perform the needed functions.

Unfortunately the tin work that surrounds the table only just lets the levers come off their splined shaft, and even so they need tilting at the last moment to remove them. This means that you can't look down onto the (pretty fine) splines to select just where you want it to go (I'd marked the shaft with a pen) - so it was an iterative process, having to take them off and on a few times before I got it right  :med:

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