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Bandsaw accuracy?

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sparky961:

--- Quote from: Lew_Merrick_PE on February 13, 2016, 04:31:29 PM ---One of the things I do is to set a (pulley system) "drop bag" to pull the piece through the cut.  Once the "line" is set straight, gravity does the rest -- and gravity never gets tired...

--- End quote ---

I like it!  You reminded me of standing, hunched over the saw, feeding a large log into a very exposed coarse blade.... Safety precautions were observed but your system seems like it would be safer and much less tiring.  I don't suppose you have any pictures of the setup?

Lew_Merrick_PE:

--- Quote from: sparky961 on February 13, 2016, 04:38:44 PM ---
--- Quote from: Lew_Merrick_PE on February 13, 2016, 04:31:29 PM ---One of the things I do is to set a (pulley system) "drop bag" to pull the piece through the cut.  Once the "line" is set straight, gravity does the rest -- and gravity never gets tired...

--- End quote ---

I like it!  You reminded me of standing, hunched over the saw, feeding a large log into a very exposed coarse blade.... Safety precautions were observed but your system seems like it would be safer and much less tiring.  I don't suppose you have any pictures of the setup?

--- End quote ---

It has been several years since I had it set-up and I am not really "into" the photography thing.  In essence, I have an approximately 6 ft. long fence that fits across the saw table (and provides "input support" and some "output support")  that has a "catch" on it to stop the "driving bridle" that the pulley system attaches to the piece to be cut.  When the "driving bridle" engages the "catch," it moves about 1.5 inches "aft" to clear the blade.  [I have been threatening for something in the 40 year range to put a "motor stop switch" on the "catch" as well, but have never gotten around to making that mod.]  The saw, which started out life as a Delta 14 inch bandsaw, has been modified to a 16 inch depth of cut.

The fence "system" replaces replaces the table and mounts directly on the trunions.  It allows me to install 1 IPS sections to guide the "driving bridle" to assure a good "mate" to the fence.  The "table" that supports the the "fence" was a piece of 1.5 inch thing cast aluminum tooling plate purchased from a "surplus store" (Freightliner, I believe) in the 1960's.  The "cable control" is a pair of 8 foot tall tripods that give me enough "drop" for everything I have needed to rip.

Does that help?

sparky961:

--- Quote from: Lew_Merrick_PE on February 13, 2016, 06:54:47 PM ---Does that help?

--- End quote ---

Indeed it does.  Thanks for clarifying.

AdeV:
Once again, thanks everyone for the many replies :)

I bought the bandsaw to do metal - the minimum blade speed is actually a trifle fast for that, although I may try a TCT blade, as I've had great results with TCT chop saw blades in the mill.

I think the main problem is blade tension - Andrew, yes, I have a blade tension guide & it's tensioned to the appropriate blade width, however, I've seen videos now which suggest that these are not necessarily particularly accurate, especially if your blade length isn't the exact manufacturer specified length, and you're supposed to tension it until just before the weld snaps.... quite how one does that without destroying the blade, I'm not entirely sure!

Also, the guides aren't set to within a gnat's of the blade width, so that must be allowing some movement. The backstop's OK.

Next time I'm going to cut anything big, I'll spend some time getting it configured. In the meantime, for slicing thin sheet ali or wood, or cutting 2by2's up, it's just fine.

Fergus OMore:
Apologies for asking questions which may or may not be pertinent to other people.
I've got a 6 x4" but whilst it is fine for rough cutting, I'd like to know what teeth per inch are recommended for lumps of cast steel. OK, I realise that for tin bashing fine blades are necessary but I'm getting pretty poor results on say 1" or thicker Meehanite.

Digressing further, I've just bought and  a set up an Aldi wood saw at £90 as I have a lot of storm damage after the winter (or the first bit). With two TCT blades, it can't be bad.

So I'd appreciate a few pointers.

My thanks- and apologies

Norman

 

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