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Homebrew engraver to 3D printer Mod
BillTodd:
Thanks Don ,
yes a noob indeed, 4 successful prints, countless failures..
I've just installed and confired Marlin 1.1.9 - iwas running 1.1.0 rc3 ..
I have home switches and have just set the Z correctly . ( I keep getting 'error too far' when i set home offsets , even though the x and y are zero and Z is only 0.3 ??? 0,0,0 is cntre of platform)
The bed is reasonably level , i will clock it and adjust when i take it off to add a heater.
I been chasing my tail to find a 'Thermal run away error' that turned out to be ( cross fingers) a loose PSU enable connection.
Ill try your nozzle fitting technique My chinese extruder seems to have been threaded with a hammer!
ddmckee54:
Couple questions:
What type of filament are you printing with? I'm using PLA, because it's less sensitive to ambient temperature changes it doesn't need a heated cabinet for the printer. With ABS a heated cabinet is ALMOST a requirement.
What are you printing your first layer on? I print on blue painters tape because it's so simple and I've always had good luck with it. Others swear by the glue stick method and many others will recommend the hairspray method.
Don
BillTodd:
hi Don,
printing with 1.75mm pla onto masking tape (painters tape US?) seem to stick fine if I get a good initial layer.
So far the prints are staying flat without a heated bed plate (had one lift when the temperature was too high-215°C)
I'll have to fix the nozzle leak before I can do anymore, just trying to summon the will to go out into the cold/wet garage to get the necessary Allan key.
Bill
WeldingRod:
Two... make three-ish tips:
Support your bed at three (and ONLY) three points on stiff springs. Use a screw to push the bed down onto the spring. This makes the bed angle easy to adjust and provides some "oops" compliance. Bonus points: use long socket flat head screws!
Put a dial indicator or test indicator on your head, and use that to set the bed. Use the screws above.
Heat your hot end to temperature before final nip-up. You usually have three, thermally mis-matched materials in there: Aluminum, brass, and stainless. Thread load varies a LOT with temperature. It would help if folks used brass heater blocks, but nobody does.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G891A using Tapatalk
BillTodd:
OK levelled the bed , but may need to make something stiffer / flatter later.
I'm getting problems with larger prints lifting , pulling the tape up or just not sticking
Need to solve this as I have a cunning plan....
[edit] odd this should be an animated gif (mod's any reason the uploads no longer work??)
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