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How do you do your PCBs?

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PekkaNF:
I'm not too reat on PCB making.

And I'm now into this kind of stuff:
https://www.elektormagazine.com/magazine/elektor-201409/27026

PCB # 130297-1
https://www.elektormagazine.fr/magazine/elektor-201406/26534

SMDs and stuf....two sided, way too small tracks...

Pekka

 

 

CrazyModder:
I have this process for 1- or 2-sided PCBs with SMDs:

1. Make board in Eagle
2. Print on overhead projector transparent sheets with a cheap laser printer
3. Expose PCB with some old (huge) sunlamp
4. Develop with NaOH
5. Etch with FeCl3
6. Drill holes
7. Rub high spots from drilling with scotch brite
8. Tin it by smearing with plumbers tin "stuff" and shooting it with a hot air gun
9. Try hard to ignore the (visual) mess this last step leaves behind with half burned PCBs and swear never to do it again :)
10. Spray it with some transparent stuff which is supposed to make it even easier to solder, and protect the copper from oxidizing
11. Solder

There you go! Looks like it's a big effort, but all steps are actually quite easy and clean. I regularly find myself doing it even though I only have a few connections to make, I just dig the look of even very small PCBs compared to individual cables on an experimental board.

PekkaNF:
You use photosensitive boards or do you spray on positive 20 or other UV-sensitive resist?

I have tried to buy some, much of them have gone old before I got them. Is there any other method to check, except to exposure, develop and etch and then try to figure out which step went wrong?

Has anybody tried toner transfer/laminator method?

Pekka

sparky961:
I've used something called "Press n Peel" quite a lot. It works pretty well if you're careful. Better for boards with some room between traces though. I found it worked much better than direct toner transfer. If you're willing to pay the shipping I'd hapilly send you a few sheets to try out.

RussellT:
I've done toner transfer with toner transfer paper.  It works OK but I always find the ironing on step fiddly.  It is difficult to keep the film still while you're getting it fixed to the copper and difficult to be sure it's all stuck down properly - especially if the tracks are narrow.

I've tried some of the suggestions on the internet for using glossy paper - they don't work nearly as well as the proper stuff.

I've never tried a double sided board but I think that it would be  difficult to register the second side.  If I had to do a double sided one I might do two boards and put them back to back.

I also try and keep my tracks and pads as fat as possible - easier to drill and solder.

Here's a picture of one I did last month - which gives some idea of how clear the edges are.

Russell

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