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Another 3D Printer
Joules:
Will, no need for a touch screen, use a PC/laptop whatever to do direct communication with the thing. For me I will be using the network port so I can send jobs direct from my CAD machine or via one of the tablets that will also be used to monitor it and progress.
Your other questions, I have no idea until its built and I can measure things myself. However I see no reason to doubt their claims. The big jump in resolution comes from moving away from 8bit to 32bit controllers. The old Rostock I have really moves across the bed in a sort of sinusoidal slither as the 8 bit controller doesn't have the grunt to calculate and deliver the in between vectors. This is my gamble on the Duet delivering much improved performance. The fact it can also handle a bolted on web server at the same time just adds to the confidence.
BillTodd:
All the parts look nicely made from here:-)
Are we there yet?....
RobWilson:
Very cool Joules :thumbup:
Rob
nrml:
I've bought one of these to connect my duet board to my wireless network http://www.amazon.co.uk/Vonets-VAP11G-WiFi-Bridge-Dongle/dp/B0050AI804
I tested it on my laptop and it does what it says on the tin - converts any device with an ethernet port to a wifi device. I would suggest getting one if you haven't decided on a wireless connection device already.
Joules:
Sorry guy's, my hearts not really in this build at the moment as I have a really sick puppy.
Some parts on closer inspection had signs of delamination, a possible problem due to under heated extrusion or cooled layer below, but not unexpected on ABS. The simple fix is a blade mounted in an iron to weld and smooth the areas affected. No biggy really, considering I wouldn't print one part for the cost they are doing the full set. The parts are adequate for the job, I just like to over engineer things. The ABS is so much softer than PLA, but they print the parts at 0.2mm, probably with a 0.4mm nozzle. My own feeling is never print over 0.15mm layers with a 0.4mm nozzle, you want a good layer squash to guarantee a good inter layer weld and even then my prints can still suffer occasional delamination.
The little Tee nuts can be a pain, but assembling the machine on its side allows the nuts to be slide along side ways than hoping they turn when you tighten them. Golden rule, "measure" all the way through the build. What it measures doesn't matter, the fact that the relative measurements are all the same DOES.
A bit of a jump ahead, and frame assembled, follow the instructions and measure that all beams are the same distance apart and components in the same plane, i.e limit switches, top section. To within 0.5mm should be OK in this area.
This is where it gets more critical and I would be aiming for 0.05mm for the legs. This determines how level your printhead is and will affect the geometry as you move towards the edges of the print area. Keep in mind you have plastic parts and over time they will change shape so what you measure now may not be the same in a month or two, but at least you should be good to get started.
I may still have an issue here later in that my measurements are close, but may not be relative to the centre, they could be displaced laterally and that will have an effect on the geometry, wait and see.
These are a bugger to tension evenly, you really are after a dull twang, not something you could kill a deer with at 100 paces.
This is where I am at for now. Overall still happy with the build, I would buy another but print my own parts to a higher quality and denser than those supplied in PLA :thumbup:
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