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Any idea why this lathe is chattering? Spindle bearings?

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lordedmond:
If the bearing get to hot slack the nut off a hair ,with a hide mallet give it a clout on the end opposite the chuck to move the spindle in a little to take off the pre load a little.

But if it was me , but it's your lathe I would take out the spindle and polish the journal so the bearing is a rightish slip fit then you will be able to set it up easier


Anyway glad you have it sorted a cheap laser temp gun is handy look for 20 to 25 degrees C above ambient as a guide

Stuart

Pete.:
If the bearings are getting hot that should ease the pre-load though it's not an ideal situation. To release some of the load I would back off the clamp nut until it's loose, spin it up until barely touching and put a piece of soft ally flat across the back of the spindle then give it a good hard crack with a large ball-pein hammer. Either that or extract the spindle and clean up the bearing diameter a bit to ease the fit.

Now you mention it I recall the (floating) rear bearing on my machine was really tight on the spindle too.

DavidA:
All this hammering on the bearings sounds rather brutal to me.

Surely best to remove the spindle and fix it properly.

Dave.

John Rudd:
Well I did say, the bearing inner races ought to be a tight sliding fit on the spindle :Doh:

I've changed standard bearings to tapers on several machines....to find I had to polish the journals to ensure a good fit.....no hammer used or big spanners to set pre load....

Excessive tightening will cause the bearings to overheat....but you know that already... :scratch:

If you have changed a wheel bearing on a car you will know what I mean...

DavidA:
John,

The front wheel bearings on rear-wheel drive cars is a good example,

I also have changed many of these taper roller assemblies. Th inner part (inner race) being a light interference fit, and the outer part just slides onto the stub axle.

And just nipped up with a enough force to stop the play on the wheel.

No brutality needed.

Dave.

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