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3D Print revisited

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Joules:
As I was rummaging through some of my old prints I happened on an early test project.  This was probably made about 2yrs ago on a Rostock Max V1 printer.  Best we could manage back then was 0.2mm layers.



The black print was the original and the white print I made a couple of days ago.  The black was printed as one part with support that took hours to clean up, the model also required lots of superglue to fix where it delaminated as its all thin section from the arms outwards.    The white print was done as two halves and then welded together, this one printed in 0.1mm layers and much stronger even the thin section arms, and once welded much stiffer.




Fortunately I found an app that used a commercial built anemometer I was able to use with my own design.



Photo is a bit blurry as it's hard to blow and photograph at the same time.  Now wouldn't this look cool nickel plated  :coffee:  Wonder who planted that idea.....

tonybraz:
 Hi I have built my own Rostock and am interested to know if you use a heated bed and which type of filament you use ( I use 3mm diameter ) 
 Cheers Tony

Joules:
Hi Tony,
           the SeeMeCNC Rostock started out with the origional head and 1.75mm filament.  We started with PLA, and after a few months fitted an E3D V5 head for greatly improved print results, less jamming and blobs on the prints.  The heated bed was the standard one supplied, but we added an external 24vdc supply to provide more current for the head and heated bed, glass plate is 10mm to provide a good heat mass.  Our Rostock is currently under used and due a refit to bring it upto V2 specification.

Pete49:
Joules I don't suppose you could link a stl file for this item? My weather station is out of use for now as I need new cups and looks like these would do it. Just asking as I'm crap at 3D ...drawing in general actually.
Pete

Joules:
Pete, do you have dimensions and picture of the what you want.  Will model what you need if I can

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