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Philip Duclos "Victorian" IC engine project
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madjackghengis:

--- Quote from: cedge on May 27, 2009, 12:15:24 AM ---John
After crashing the first gear, the second also bit the dust in the same manner. Repeated cuts on the RT were pretty mind numbing. Since the second gear died while under the final dimensional cut, I took the advice of a user on HMEM and tried the cut in a single pass. The drill rod cutter was up for it and the mill didn't complain any more than when it was taking smaller cuts. 28 passes later I had a much cleaner looking gear than when I was making multiple passes and it meshed well enough to begin the lapping in process. The gears are now running together without any extreme drag and what there is should disappear once I can put the gears under power for a final run in.

Interesting project and I'll do it again when required, but I'd rather eat molten glass than do it for a living....(grin). There are kinder methods for driving men to madness. Hi Cedge, I just finished cutting a spur gear to mesh with a worm in a driving motor for a portable valve seat replacing machine, I almost just wrote off the driver, having finished the replacing of the seats, and doing the valve job in my mill, but the fact that the spur gear with the teeth set at the helix angle of the worm lasted twenty years of my own use, and perhaps a few hundred seats cut out, I decided to cut it as a spur gear and follow the less than best way that was originally used.  I ground a tool bit rather than buy a twenty five buck cutter, but was foolish enough to use one of my regular flycutters, so the angles for the grinding were rather a bit of interesting work, I'm making a straight out fly cutter for gears, when I get a moment, but I had real doubts about cutting the teeth with a single pass as so many people have written.  I found, like you, the quality of the gear was vastly improved by a full depth cut on all the teeth, and no problems at all shown by the flycutter, cutting in aluminum bronze, to a depth of .091 for fifty one teeth.  After it was cut, I found I liked the curve on one side of the upper end of the teeth better than the other side, flipped the gear around on the arbor, set the cutter into a tooth slot, increased the depth of cut by a thousandth, and cut all fifty one teeth again, and it works great in the driver motor, has full power I haven't felt in years, and completely changes my trepidation over cutting gears with a flycutter.  I've got three or four cutters which I have bought for the making of a single gear, and no longer feel that is necessary.  By the way, that is one shiny engine you've got going together there, about elegant enough for me to make one for my mom, for her table.  Absolutely a beaut!! :jaw: mad jack

Steve



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cedge:
Jack...
Once you've taken on a gear or two, the fear factor goes way down. I'm going to build up a set of hobs when i get the time. after seeing how they work, I'd be nuts to stick with the single tooth cutter. That might be just the ticket for when I finish my current build. No less mind numbing, but the hob does come a little closer to a true involute end product.

Steve   :proj:
madjackghengis:

--- Quote from: Bernd on August 17, 2009, 09:36:09 AM ---Very nice build Steve. I don't think you can call it "Duclos's Victorian Engine". It should be called "Cedge's Victorian Engine". It's no were near what Philip's engine looks like with all the mods you made.

 :bow:  BRAVO.  :bow:

The video will be the crown jewel in this build series. Can't wait to see that.

You need to take a well deserved vacation now so you can think up on what you're going to build next.  :)

Bernd

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Hi Cedge, I have to agree with Bernd, this is definitively a "Cedge's Victorian Engine", with all your unique attributes you added.  I have to say, the brass screen in the aluminum water tank looks much better than the brass water tank.  Somehow the aluminum of the tank goes with the "white metal" of the basic engine, with the brass screen accentuating the vast amounts of brass and bronze that go so well with beautifully polished aluminum.  You expand the meaning of "form following function", and give it new luster as the "form" makes so much impact on the senses. :jaw: :thumbup: mad jack
madjackghengis:

--- Quote from: cedge on April 25, 2010, 11:24:09 AM ---Jack...
Once you've taken on a gear or two, the fear factor goes way down. I'm going to build up a set of hobs when i get the time. after seeing how they work, I'd be nuts to stick with the single tooth cutter. That might be just the ticket for when I finish my current build. No less mind numbing, but the hob does come a little closer to a true involute end product.

Steve   :proj:

--- End quote ---
Cedge, for decades, I've cut single and double, and an occasional three or more teeth, fixing a machine, matching the teeth cut by hand with saw and file, to the profile of the rest, and feeling when they are right.  I've even cut a 96 tooth gear by hand with a hacksaw and a japanese saw file, when in Japan, and couldn't access a mill, but all that was a matter of "feel", when I was done, and little or no repeatability.  Actually cutting gears where the teeth all look the same, and feel the same is a whole new ball game, and far different from matching a couple new teeth to the way all the others perform.  I have to say, I've had doubts about methods show for setting up flycutters for cutting teeth that have been put to rest completely now.  By the way, that was a rather remarkable save on the cam gear, I've used a similar set up to get things in alignment in the lathe, when I worked on electronics in the Corps, I tore apart all the small gear motors I removed from service, and kept things like bearings and such, and have a drawer full of small to very tiny bearings, and have one on the end of a bar just as a pusher, as you describe.  When's the video for the Victorian engine being released? mad jack
cedge:
Here Ya go Jack.....


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Steve
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