Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
Anyone a Mountain Bike Expert?
sparky961:
So, I don't seem to be very productive today so I went and pulled the bike from the shed and snapped some photos.
I had previously replaced the click-shift levers after a crash that left me with my first ever broken bone. In addition to my clavicle requiring about six weeks to mend, the shift lever on one side was completely smashed.
Also replaced was the rear derailleur. On a separate occasion a few years after the first incident, a stick along a very woody trail became lodged in a very wrong place and quickly broke the pivot arm. I can't remember if I was left stuck in a high or low gear but whichever it was I remember that getting back to the truck wasn't much fun.
Here is the list of issues I'm aware of. It's actually smaller than I remember. Funny how the severity of a project can get blown out of proportion in one's head, eh?
1. Rear axle/bearing
Can the bearing and race(s) be replaced without replacing the rim or does one just get a new rim? How to properly measure a rim and ensure compatibility?
2. Crank bearing
This has always been an issue with occasional looseness taken care of by a slight tightening of the nut. A cyclical "click" has always been present.
3. Front shocks
Some side-to-side wobble, a bit more than I'm comfortable with but not sure what's considered normal play for these.
4. Cracked rim?
I was sure I had noticed a crack in one of the aluminum rims and was going to take a picture of it. Do you think I could find it though? I did notice some very straight lines, either parting lines from a mold or where they've joined a rolled flat extrusion to create the rim. I wonder if I hadn't mistaken this for a crack the first time I saw it. If the only way to fix the bearing issue is to replace the rim than this problem is solved by default.
5. Upgrades
- Although I was able to find some brake pads that really impressed me, I was never quite satisfied with the performance in wet and/or muddy conditions. If disc brakes reliably give that performance, I'd consider that upgrade.
- Better derailleurs? I have yet to find a bike that shifts gears really nicely, especially if you need to do it under load. I have also, on occasion, been able to overpower the grip/meshing of the chain on the sprockets and have it slip. Of course this happens at the least opportune moment - like right at the top of a steep incline, heading "up".
Maybe some of my complaints are due to my ignorance of proper technique, but I think if you can solve the problem mechanically than damn the technique. :)
Arbalist:
Anything that requires rebuilding of wheels is best done by an experienced technician. Budget Wheel rims themselves are just a simple hoop and the join is normally quite visible, I upgraded to welded Mavic rims. The crank bearing assembly is called a "bottom bracket" and cheap/worn ones often have that annoying "click"! They aren't difficult or expensive to replace but you'll need a special tool. I opted for a Shimano "Octalink" bottom bracket and cranks. Disc brakes work really well in all conditions and the cable ones are more than good enough for normal use.
sparky961:
Holy crap. There's a dizzying array of "Bottom Bracket" tools on eBay.
I also learned that there are quite a few different styles according to the Wikipedia entry:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bottom_bracket
patuca:
Stangely enough I just got finished renovating an old friend from the early '80s. I bought this bike when I had legs to ride back in the early '80s I think, passed it on to my daughter, grandkids, and finally it was ready for the dump. But I remembered how sweet it was to ride so back it came, and in the last month I spent weeks taking it apart, polishing and fixing it up, it's ready for another 35 years....
Reynolds 453 butted tube, the usual Shimano fittings, Maillard hubs etc. about 24 lbs. Nothing fancy, but nothing cheap either.
It's not really worth it to fix these old crates...you can spend hundreds and the value is still low. But, what the heck, my physio lady says I need a "stationary" bike so why not? Besides, it's part of the family and it's kinda pretty.
patuca
Arbalist:
I like Park Tools:
http://www.parktool.com/category/crank-bottom-bracket
Unless you want to replace the cranks you'll need to replace the bottom bracket with the same type and size as the old one. I chose the Octalink BB partly because Shimano supply lightweight hollow cranks to match. Your first job is to remove your cranks to see exactly what you've got and have a quick measure up for size.
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