Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
Anyone a Mountain Bike Expert?
CrazyModder:
--- Quote from: sparky961 on October 31, 2015, 01:49:29 PM ---- Although I was able to find some brake pads that really impressed me, I was never quite satisfied with the performance in wet and/or muddy conditions. If disc brakes reliably give that performance, I'd consider that upgrade.
--- End quote ---
It is what it is. Disk brakes really are far better than rim brakes in muddy weather (or, actually, even in the dry ;) ). They almost are a must when taking long steep downhill rides with constant braking since they do not break down as fast when they get really hot since they don't use rubbery braking pads.
The downside is that you need special attachment points on the frame to fit them, of course, so unless your bike already has those it may be prohibitively expensive. Or if you try to DIY it, it may be a huge effort combined with a rather hefty risk of them breaking (sic) during use. The comfortable ones also use oil instead of cables...
Arbalist:
At £7.88 UK price I wouldn't bother making one of these.
http://www.mec.ca/product/5017-370/filzer-bottom-bracket-tool-shimanoisis-2/?q=Bottom%2Bbracket%2Btool
sparky961:
--- Quote from: Arbalist on November 09, 2015, 04:17:54 AM ---At £7.88 UK price I wouldn't bother making one of these.
http://www.mec.ca/product/5017-370/filzer-bottom-bracket-tool-shimanoisis-2/?q=Bottom%2Bbracket%2Btool
--- End quote ---
Ordinarily, I'd agree with you. In fact, I'm certain I've given similar advice to someone else in the past.
However, part of my goal with this project was to make any tool that I could. Its good practice for making things that have immediate and direct usefulness.
With that out of the way, it sure is tempting to spend ~$15CAD and have a perfectly serviceable tool arrive along with the part in the mail. Stay tuned to see if I give in to the temptation.
sparky961:
Well, I took off the wheels this evening and got a bit of a surprise. The one rear axle is really bent! Rotating it and watching it, I'd say there's 1/16" to 1/8" or runout where it sits in the frame. I'm guessing this happened at the same time I broke my collar bone.
Spinning the bearings feels about as smooth as if one used topsoil instead of grease. The front is rough but not loose. The back is rough, loose, and bent.
So am I correct that there are only so many components that are replaceable in there? Is my best (or only) option to replace the entire wheel assembly? I thought of maybe getting new hubs but re-lacing and truing the wheel myself doesn't seem like a good idea.
And hey, while we're on the topic of wheels (and tires)... is there such thing as a bike tire (or car tire) that doesn't slowly lose air? I hate topping up tires but it's much worse trying to ride/drive without enough air in them.
awemawson:
Can you not pull the axle out and straighten it in a press on Vee blocks? It's only short - even a bench vice might do it if no press to hand.
From my dim and distant recollection of bicycles I seem to remember that the axles are only a bar with bearing cones screwed on at each end with possibly flats. If straightening doesn't work, make a new one.
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