The Shop > Tools

sieg c4 compound problem ?

<< < (2/2)

ja2on:
the gib is bent I have tried my best to straighten it but is still not great when placed on a parallel
I have managed to improve the play but half of the travel is still very tight  :bang:
not like my cross slide which is smooth and play free and light to use

I am worried the dove tails have been cut badly but I have no means of testing that

klank:
Hello Jason,

I too bought a C4 recently (from Axminster) and have been slowly going round it to fettle it in a bit. I also am getting a binding point at each end of the top slide travel - you are not alone in this it seems.

It arrived "workshop adjusted" and to be fair, was pretty good, apart from the red gooey snot stuff adhering to some exposed bits.

I have changed all of the jib adjusting screws (slotted ends!!) - which seemed to be made of putty, with high tensile socket/allen head grub screws.

I took each jib out and figure eighted it on wet-n-dry taped to a surplus, large bathroom tile and then linished to a shiny finish. Made a huge amount of difference to the movement of all of the slides and got rid of a tiny amount of slop which was apparent in the main cross slide. 

The main jib strip on the rear of the saddle was gummed up with powder coat, and would not come free at first, plus you have to be a contortionist to get at it.

The strip on the top (compound) slide was flat, but slightly bowed along its length - very odd. I too am getting a smooth travel in the middle, but binding up at the ends of travel - even after fettling.
I think I shall have to make a new jib strip for this slide and see if that helps matters.

One other little problem I encountered concerned the main leadscrew.
I "stalled" the motor when taking a power feed cut on some really awful (scrap) steel bar of unknown provenance. The electronics shut it down and I re-set the speed, no problems. However, on re-engaging the clasp nuts, although the motor ran quite happily, the carriage stayed put. I noticed that the leadscrew was projecting beyond the end pillow block on the front of the bed end (right hand end). Turns out the main leadscrew is held into the drive train at the headstock end by a fairly chunky collar, nipped up by two clench bolts on a flat on the inboard end of the leadscrew. If these are not tightened up properly, the leadscrew can pull out under power feed if things get heavy going. It is quite easy to do these up properly, after removing the front of the motor control panel, and, touch wood, no further problems - even pushing the motor quite hard.

I am finding the two saddle locking pads - on the top of the apron, don't really grip tight enough - has anyone done a good saddle lock mod?

I would be interested to hear how it goes for you and if Steve can give us his views.

Best wishes

Peter

Bernd:
Peter,

You won't get an answer from Jason. You'll notice under his name is the word "Guest". Jason is no longer a member. For some reason he signed off one day without reason as to why and has not been back.

Bernd

cedge:
Peter
I've really been amazed at how hard you can push the C4 without stalling things out. I've made some cuts that would have severely choked the 7x14 lathe and the motor doesn't vary more than 10 RPM. I've stalled it a couple of times doing heavy cuts in cast iron but that only occurred when I unintentionally let the cutter run into a wall of metal.  You have to watch that.... it will pull the work piece out of the chuck before it quits. I do find myself cutting at much lower RPMs and getting much better finishes than ever before.

I've had no problems with the gibs on my machine, but those cheesy slotted adjuster screws have got to go. I've already replaced them in the facing/turning lever and once the current engine project is done, the others will disappear as well. I really haven't used the carriage lock due to having gotten in the habit of engaging the lead screw when I want the carriage to stay put.

I've adapted an independent power feed to the lead screw and now have full variable control over travel speeds as well as the RPM control. That has made an already fun machine even more enjoyable to use. With the gear reduction in the saddle controls, you can make a cut at a snails pace when you want. I can also chase chatter out of the picture quite nicely now. I've almost decided to hold off on adding a DRO to the lathe, since I can see the marks on this one much better than the other. Getting it spot on while using the dials has its own sort of satisfaction. The only other significant change was an upgrade to a 5 inch chuck. That was a good move.


I've not a single regret for having bought the machine and after using it a while, I'm wondering how I got as much accuracy from the smaller machine that I did. It came out of the crate ready to run with only minor tightening of the gibs and a whole lot of dragon blood to be remove. Bottom line... I'd have no problem recommending the machine to anyone looking to purchase a first lathe or wanting to upgrade.

Steve

klank:
Hello Steve,
Thankyou for your comments/advice.
I had never thought of using the clasp nuts as a "carriage lock" before - presumably you just disengage the banjo from the spindle pinion - maybe make a "lever mod" to do this? (Still have to tighten it up though when needing power feed?)

Anyway, I noted with interest your comment re. independent power feed to the leadscrew. I've searched the site and cannot see anything (and may have missed it) but would be very interested in knowing how you did it - any chance you could publish, (or pm me if better) your recipe?

Peter

Navigation

[0] Message Index

[*] Previous page