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| picclock's modified i3 3d printer attempt |
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| picclock:
Hi Pete49 By all means shorten the leads to suit your layout, there are no technical issues with this. Just be sure you don't make them too short :palm:, allowing enough length for the X and Y axis extremities. Two ways, best is to get a ratchet crimp tool and some 'dupont' crimps for the black receptacles on the ramps board, unclip original (use pin), cut wire to length, crimp new connector, reinsert into receptacle. Easiest way is to use some heatshrink sleeving 2 or 3mm, cut wire in an appropriate place, shorten to length, put heatshrink over one wire to be joined ~ approx 12mm. Strip and tin ends of wire to about 3mm. Hold one wire in vice/clamp etc., and then hold the two tinned sections adjacent and parallel. Just touch them with the soldering iron and surface tension will do the rest. Slide heatshrink over the joint and either use a heatgun, lighter, or the hot part of soldering iron under the tubing and it will shrink to size, supporting and insulating the joint. Heatshrink kits can be bought for a few pounds on ebay, and are useful for many things. Good luck Best Regards picclock |
| Pete49:
Thanks for the reply. I have lots of heatshrink to fit the wires so the next project is going ahead. I made a cardboard surround lined with alfoil to retain the warmth which works well and the power unit and Arduino board are outside of this to avoid heat related complications. I decided on cardboard (the type with 3 layers 2 smooth and an inner of corrugated cardboard compliments of her new TV) due to lightness, ease of access and the fact that our mild winters don't require extra padding. The only thing I felt needed extra work was making a base for it to sit on so I could secure the printer to it to make the print bed less flexible. Pete |
| picclock:
Hi Pete49 The base of any accurate machine is the most important part, as all accuracy depends on its stability. I used a granite kitchentop for mine, granite being commonly used for accurate measuring systems. For this sort of stuff most decent non temperature/humidity affected materials will work OK, and best of all, when you set stuff on it, it accurately stays there. Good Luck Best Regards picclock |
| Pete49:
--- Quote from: picclock on June 14, 2016, 06:36:28 AM ---Hi Pete49 The base of any accurate machine is the most important part, as all accuracy depends on its stability. I used a granite kitchentop for mine, granite being commonly used for accurate measuring systems. For this sort of stuff most decent non temperature/humidity affected materials will work OK, and best of all, when you set stuff on it, it accurately stays there. picklock --- End quote --- These are my thoughts too and the reason for wanting a base to solidify the machine. At the moment the heater bed section can move about 6mm either way and while it hasn't moved during printing yet I prefer it not to be able to move at all so a good base is my next move. The wiring mess has been brought under control while I wait for my new 2560 board. I haven't found the cause of the reason it went dark but I'm still looking :doh: Pete |
| picclock:
Hi Pete49 I had that happen to me early on. Turned out the on board regulator chip had died. I think it might happen when you plug it into USB (3?) whilst its still powered up. If the power to the USB goes the board tries to power it and it overloads the chip and its game over :zap:. I replaced mine with a 7805 (see piccy) and once working then proceeded to blow up a different part of it by accident :wack:. After that I ordered two, one for a spare. Best Regards picclock |
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