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| picclock's modified i3 3d printer attempt |
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| picclock:
@ RusselT Oven door glass would be good but I believe it is tempered. This occurs after it is cut to size and any further attempts to cut it will cause it to break. @BillTodd Thats the very question I have been asking myself. I have a sheet of 4mm Aluminium, T6 I think, which could easily be used as a bed, and made heated by the addition of some resisters. This would allow much higher power and placement of the resisters could be (skilfully ? :palm:) made to even out the temperature differentials across the surface. However, from internet research it seems that this is not an approved solution, with various problems cited. I forsee a couple of issues but nothing major. One is that the top surface cannot be replaced, so once it is damaged its there forever. Another is that of surface warping/bending due to uneven heating. I think this could be largely eliminated by resister positioning and multipoint bed probing for auto levelling. But the issue is that glass will happily withstand the bed temperatures providing they are equalised throughout the material, and this will need to be sorted for any solution to be effective. Will try a heat spreader - hopefully today and map the temperature differential. Best Regards picclock |
| Sid_Vicious:
Tempered glass can be cut with an anglegrinder if you are careful, so if you can pick some stove glass you could give it a try. |
| picclock:
Just thought I'd share my experiences with a very low cost webcam. Advertised from ebay : http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mini-USB-2-0-PC-Camera-HD-Webcam-Camera-Web-Cam-With-MIC-For-Computer-PC-Laptop-/311435955773?hash=item4883078e3d:g:ipYAAOSwd0BV5En1 With the original description original Mini-USB-2-0-PC-Camera-HD-Webcam-Camera-Web-Cam-With-MIC-For-Computer-PC-Laptop So I did what most rational people would do, having checked its functionality, and not believing a word of the advert, I took it apart. Did a quick internet search for the pcb number, and came up with : http://www.penguin.cz/~utx/hardware/USB_Camera_AX2311/#cheap_usb_web_camera_teardown_analysis_and_examples from Stanislav Brabec. So my HD webcam is in fact a more sedate 640x480 1.2Mpixel device. However, I am not surprised, as this is pretty much exactly what I needed, and combined with the any position camera neck and suction base I think that at £3.66 it represents very good value for money, though I have since seen it cheaper. The only mod I made to the camera was to remove a plastic ledge from around the base of the lens to allow me to focus it more easily. I found this works in Octopi with camera_usb_options="./mjpg_streamer -r 640x480 -y -n" set in octopi.txt You can see the quality in one of the pictures which show it in operation. Best Regards picclock |
| picclock:
A little more info. Earlier, i was having issues with bed glass cracking due to differential expansion. I measured a centre to edge glass temperature around 50C, hence the glass failure. I then fitted a 1mm aluminium heat spreader between the glass and pcb heater. This worked incredibly well, bringing the differential, centre to edge down to about 5C. After taping the edge the the difference over the bed is around 1 or two C, pretty perfect. However this has shown up weaknesses in the pcb heater, as it now reaches 100C/ with an ambient of 10C, which is a bit on the edge, but at least it allows abs prints to stick (with applications of hairspray, followed by ABS juice). I think it likely I will replace the pcb bed heater and spreader with a 2mm aluminium sheet with resisters attached, as this would allow double the heating power with much faster warmups. Because the sheet will be warmed evenly no warping should occur - well maybe. So onto printing my first working parts - at least attempting to. In order to get parts flat I have found the use of a raft is essential. Picture shows raft pieces being broken out. However, if you look carefully at the topside picture you will see the top of the spur gear is missing. I thought this was a slicer area or software issue, but I later found the filament had caught in one of the notches on the supply reel, resulting in the filament being shredded in the extruder. Extruder maintenance now needed :drool: Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
Hi picclock, You are advancing very well indeed! :thumbup: and solving the cracking glass plate matter as well - very good! I notice that you are using a good skirt or raft which I also think is very useful when printing. All the parts I got to build my machine had the same type of raft. simple to clean out and it gives flat prints very well. Bugger about the filament catching the spool and shredding just at the final bit. You are well on your way now. /Peter |
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