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| picclock's modified i3 3d printer attempt |
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| picclock:
Hi PeterE, Pete49. Thanks for your thoughts. I will certainly try those ideas next time I am printing. Because my printer is in the garage, and I am in the office, I need a way to power up and program the printer remotely. I am using octoprint with a raspberry pi, and this can be modded to allow other control outputs, for remote power on/off and camera on/off. Then I will be able to print stuff remotely, check how its doing, and if necessary, power off the printer. To this end I have designed a very small pcb to attach to the pi to drive a solid state relay and camera on/off with a spare output for stuff I have forgotten. I will start a thread in the electronics section for this. @ PeterE Hope you manage to get your printer sorted soon. Looking forward to seeing it in operation. Mine just looks like a pile of bits ATM because I am waiting for the abs to print the parts which will finish it off. I have just received a servo for bed levelling/probing, and I will incorporate this into the extruder assembly design when I print a new one. It does seem the best way to go. Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
Hi picclock, My printer will get its attention from tomorrow when all reamining small bits of supporting work is done to get my daughter happy in her new apartment. /Peter |
| picclock:
Hi. So I have designed and completed my little RPi addon pcb - see http://madmodder.net/index.php/topic,11358.0.html. Octopi now sports two extra on off options on the system menu to control the power for the printer and webcam. So all appeared to be going well. The abs filament has arrived and I made some abs juice to try out as per web instructions. Fired up the printer with the intent to print some cable chains to try to sort out the mess of wires. Dropped the sliced Gcode file onto octopi and hit print. Then about 5 mins later as the bed was warming up there was a loud crack and the mirror bed had self destructed. :scratch: From the pattern of the break it looks like it may have been caused by differential expansion of the glass - it occurred at around 85C - see picture. Was not expecting that. Glass was 2mm, which may be a bit thin. No other mechanical stresses on the glass. Looking at the odd fracture pattern it could be that the centre warmed and expanded more quickly that the outer edge. Best Regards picclock |
| PeterE:
picclock, Ahh, too bad when such things happen ... The glass for my bed is a 200mm square piece of borosilicate glass around 3mm thick, so thicker than yours but can also handle higher temperatures. Borosilicate glass is the same type used in some oven-proof bowls and dishes for pies etc. It may be so that the mirror glass is basically ordinary glass with less temperature range and together with the variation of temperature it could crack easier. This is just a guess though. Another thing is that I hold the glass plate to the heatbed with just four clips, one in each corner, that will also slightly lessen the clamping forces if the bed warps or twists during heating. My 2 cents ... Good work so far, keep the good tempo up! :thumbup: /Peter |
| Will_D:
--- Quote from: Pete49 on March 11, 2016, 10:04:32 PM ---I have found the best glue to use is cheap hairspray :lol: --- End quote --- IIRC the largest/bigest aerosol can I ever did see was for a "cheap" Hairspray Also good as a "non insecticida/non chemical" fly spray. |
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