picclock's modified i3 3d printer attempt

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PeterE:
Aha, thank you Andrew, good to know. In Sweden they normally go under their brand name which is Tops.

tom osselton:
Q tips here.

picclock:
Hi All

Thanks for your kind comments PeterE. How would you know where to put the dabs of acetone to hold it down? With a heated bed I would imagine it would evaporate very quickly, and when printing multiple items would be very difficult. Supposedly, with abs juice (a mixture of acetone and abs) you can just wipe the bed over and the job is done.

Picture below of my first print (PLA). On the whole, not too bad. Its the right shape and reasonably concentric. Surface finish is very good, better than I expected. Its all slightly undersized, likely due to shrinkage.

Measuring the 1st step up from the bottom i get 19.75 at the narrowest point and 19.90 at the widest, so about 0.15mm out of round, and 0.18mm too small. Part of this may be because the slicers define a circle as a multisided polygon, and the number of sides will affect the circles concentricity. The steps narrow slightly in the middle before coming out again at the top. The step heights are pretty good, at 5mm +-.05, which is impressive for two bits of M5 studding.

The top pillar is nbg, as the plastic did not have time to harden before the next layer was added. The slicing was done with Cura, with its recommended temp setting of 210 for PLA. Other users recon from 160 upwards so it may be too high. Also Cura allows the setting of a pause time between layers for the plastic to harden, so I may well experiment with that.

Unfortunately, PLA is just not suitable for the things I need to make, mainly because of its low temperature softening, so I will have to wait until the abs arrives.

Thanks for your interest.

Best Regards

picclock

PeterE:
The tip I was given on putting a dab of acetone to "glue" the print to the bed was to do it when the "skirt" is laid and then dab in "four corners" of course regardless if the object is round or not. It would evaporate quickly, but I don't think quickly enough to not glue the part to the bed plate. My own experiments will tell.

When it comes to temperature I have underrstood it so that the range given by the maker of the filament is the appropriate range, and I would start at the lower end to begin with. This to get a good bond between layers but still easy enough to spread. I guess this is one of the things that even may be different from machine to machine as the machine placement could affect the surrounding temp.

Making a box around it would make that easier to control, and you would get a chance to make an "exhaust" to guide the print fumes out of the room to keep it healthier.

BR

/Peter

Pete49:
I have found the best glue to use is cheap hairspray :lol: It sticks ABS and PLA well and when it cools the items lift off. I put on 3-4 coats then refresh it every few prints. This is on a heated glass bed though.
Pete

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