Gallery, Projects and General > How do I??
boring a compound angle in a block?
sparky961:
I'm surprised no one has asked yet about the level of accuracy you require. If you're talking fractions of a degree then certainly a sine bar/plate setup is the most likely candidate.
However, if you can live with it being off by maybe a degree of two you can probably set things up using a plate protractor and/or a magnetic dial protractor (Google it). A universal bevel protractor will get you even closer. Carefully shim things up to the angles required, making sure that it's well-secured at the same time. Light cuts and lots of clamps. Aluminum cuts like wood if you're careful. You may be able to get away with using wood as shims or cut the compound angle out of wood on another tool (compound mitre saw, table saw) and use it as a mounting base. Hell, you could even cut something from aluminum on one of those.
Depending on your lathe, you may be able to secure the works to the cross slide. If it's a through hole, consider line boring. If not, it may still work with an adjustable boring head in your 3/4 jaw chuck. Did I miss the size of the hole? Maybe you can just drill it? I like this thought much better than the whole mess spinning on a face plate.
Again, make sure it's secure and don't go blaming me if you get it in the teeth... :P
PekkaNF:
Sounds like one thing I needed to to put few holes. But the offset angles were a smaller, like 15 and 5 degrees. I did not have a tilting vice. Therefore I need a plan on how to make a slated "cube" that could be clamped on plain vice and milled the angles needed. Pretty easy to set up with proctractor about 1 degree of accuracy, when two opposite clamping surfaces we milled, they were used to set pice square on table and another angle was set, clamped and then all features were milled, holes put. last thing was to mill off all previous clamping surfaces, but one!
Can you chuck a whole bit bigger piece on the chuck?
Maybe you could use reverse method: First bore a hole on oversize piece (surface on hole axis if needed), maybe also turn boss or something to help successive operations and then remount and turn excess off to produce the exterior of the part with hole in correct angle, relative to lathe chuck (or turning axis).
Might need some thought before and tapping/drilling holes to mount it on a "dolly" that could be chucked on four jaw chuck?
Pekka
chipenter:
Clamp it to an angle block to the greater angle , mount it on the compound slide and turn the compound to the required angle , or use a test bar between centres .
shipto:
Accuracy isn't critical basically it's a block to mount carbs on a dirt bike that I am fitting a engine that was meant for a different bike. This has meant that the direction the carbs mounted needs to be reversed. So as long as the carbs are close to horizontal it will be fine. I think I might try to weld up a jig today that I can put on faceplate.
Jonny:
Easy on in a lathe, bore through parallel a larger block of aluminium. Mill to size after job done easy.
Don't forget to extra boring lengths.
Did one last week but in mill, just angled it in a vice.
No bolt holes for carb, reed or barrel fit?
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